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Here are the tastingspoons players. I’m in the middle (Carolyn). Daughter Sara on the right, and daughter-in-law Karen on the left. I started the blog in 2007, as a way to share recipes with my family. I’m still doing 99% of the blogging and holding out hope that these two lovely and excellent cooks will participate. They both lead very busy lives, so we’ll see.

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BOOK READING (from Carolyn):

Music of Bees, Eileen Garvin. Absolutely charming book about a woman in midlife, lonely, who raises bees, also makes unlikely friends. Heart-warming and very interesting about beekeeping.

A Postcard from Paris, Alex Brown. Really cute story. Dual time line, 1940s and present day about renovating an old apartment in Paris, things discovered.

Time of the Child, Niall Williams. Oh such a good book. Very small village in Ireland, 1960s. A baby is left on the doorstep. The town all whispers and helps. I listened to an interview of the author, which made me like him and his books even more.

Sipsworth, Simon Van Booy. If you like animals you’ll swoon. An old woman who really wants to die finds a tiny mouse in her house and befriends it and finds a reason to live. Utterly charming book.

The Forger’s Spell, Edward Dolnick. True story. For seven years a no-account painter named Han van Meegeren managed to pass off his paintings as those of Johannes Vermeer.

If You Lived Here, You’d be Home by Now, Christopher Ingraham. Could hardly put it down – about a journalist who takes on a challenge to move to small town in Minnesota and write about it. He expects to hate it and the people and place, but he doesn’t. Absolutely wonderful true story.

The River We Remember, William Kent Kreuger. 1950s, Minnesota. A murder and the aftermath. Could hardly put it down. Kreuger has such a vivid imagination and writing style.

How the Lights Gets In, Joyce Maynard. An older woman returns to New Hampshire to help care for her brain-injured son. Siblings and family, lots of angst and resentments.

The Filling Station, Vanessa Miller. Every American should read this book. A novelized retelling of the Tulsa massacre in 1921. Absolutely riveting.

The Story She Left Behind, Patti Callahan Henry. Love this author. Based on a true story. A famous author simply vanishes, leaving her husband and daughter behind. She had invented a mystical language no one could translate. Present day, someone thinks he’s solved the riddle, contacts the family. Really interesting read.

The Girl from Berlin, Ronald Balson. Love anything about Tuscany. An elderly woman is being evicted from a villa there, with odd deed provenance. Two young folks go there to help unravel the mystery. Loved it.

The Island of the Colorblind, Oliver Sacks, M.D. Nonfiction. The dr is intrigued by a remote Pacific island where most of the inhabitants are colorblind. He also unravels a mystery on Guam of people born with a strange neurological problem. Medical mysteries unveiled. Very interesting.

The Bookbinder, Pip Williams. Post 1914 London. Two sisters work at a bookbindery. They’re told to not read the books. One does and one doesn’t. One has visions beyond her narrow world; the other does not. Eventually the one gets into Oxford. Lovely story.

The Paris Express, Emma Donoghue. 1895 on a train to Paris, a disaster happens. You’ll delve into the lives of many people who survived and died in the crash.

A Race to the Bottom of Crazy, Richard Grant. This is about Arizona. Author, wife and child move back to Arizona where they once lived. Part memoir, research, and reporting in a quest to understand what makes Arizona such a confounding and irresistible place.

The Scarlet Thread, Francine Rivers. A woman’s life turned upside down when she discovers the handcrafted quilt and journal of her ancestor Mary Kathryn McMurray, a young woman who was uprooted from her home only to endure harsh frontier conditions on the Oregon Trail.

A Place to Hide, Ronald Balson. 1939 Amsterdam, an ambassador has the ability to save the lives of many Jewish children. Heartwarming.

Homeseeking, Karissa Chen. Two young Chinese teens are deeply in love, but in China. Then their families are separated. Jump to current day and the two meet again in Los Angeles.

North River, Pete Hammill. He always writes such a good story. A doctor works diligently healing people from all walks of life. His wife and daughter left him years before. One day his 3-yr old grandson arrives on his doorstep.

A Very Typical Family, Sierra Godfrey. A very messed-up family. Three adult children are given a home in Santa Cruz, Calif, but only if the siblings meet up and live in the house together. A very untypical scenario but makes for lots of messes.

Three Days in June, Anne Tyler. The usual Anne Tyler grit. Family angst. This wasn’t one of my favorites, but it was entertaining and very short.

Saved, Benjamin Hall. Author is a veteran war reporter. Ukraine, 2022, he nearly loses his life to a Russian strike. Riveting story – he survives, barely.

Grey Wolf, Louise Penny. Another Inspector Gamache mystery in Quebec. She is such an incredible mystery writer.

All the Colors of the Dark, Chris Whitaker. A missing person mystery, a serial killer thriller, a love story, a unique twist on each. Could hardly put it down.

Orbital, Samantha Harvey. Winner of 2024 Booker Prize. I don’t usually like those, but I heard the author interviewed and she hooked me. This is not a normal book with a beginning, a story and an end. It’s several chapters of the day in the life of various astronauts at the ISS (Int’l Space Station). All fictional. She’s been praised by several real astronauts for “getting it” about space station everyday life.

The Blue Hour, Paula Hawkins. An island off Scotland. Inaccessible except when the tide is out. Weird goings on. An artist. A present day mystery too.

Iron Lake, William Kent Krueger. A judge is murdered and a boy is missing. Riveting mystery.

Tell the Wolves I’m Home, Carol Ricks Brunt. 1980s. A 14-yr old girl loses her beloved uncle. Yet a new friendship arises, someone she never knew about.

Four Treasures of the Sky, Jenny Zhang. 1880s, a young girl is kidnapped in China and brought to the United States. She survives with many hurdles in the path.

The Boy Who Fell out of the Sky, Ken Dornstein. Memoir, 1988. The author’s brother died in the PanAm flight that went down in Lockerbie, Scotland. A decade later he tries to solve “the riddle of his older brother’s life.”

Worse Care Scenario, T.J. Newman. Oh my. Interesting analysis of what could/might happen if a jet crashed into a nuclear plant. Un-put-downable.

Song of the Lark, Willa Cather. Complicated weave of a story about a young woman in about 1900, who has a gifted voice (singing) and about her journey to success, not without its ups and downs.

Crow Talk, Eileen Garvin. Charming story which takes place at a remote lake in Washington State, about a few people who inhabit it, the friendships made, but also revolving around the rescue of a baby crow.

The Story Collector, Evie Woods. Sweet story about some dark secrets from an area in Ireland, a bit magical, faerie life, but solving a mystery too.

A Sea of Unspoken Things, Adrienne Young. A woman investigates her twin brother’s mysterious death. She goes to a small town in California to figure it out, to figure HIM out.

The King’s Messenger, Susanna Kearsley. 1600s England, King James. About one of his trusted “messengers,” and his relationship with a young woman also of “the court.” Lots of intrigue.

In the Shadow of the Greenbrier, Emily Matchar. Interesting mystery in/around the area of the famous resort in White Sulphur Springs, West Virginia.

Isola, Allegra Goodman. Hard to describe, survival story on an island in the 1600s.

Save the Date, Allison Raskin. Rom-com, witty, LOL funny. Clever.

The Sirens, Emilia Hart. Numerous time-lines, Australia. Mysteries abound, nightmares, abandoned baby, weird allergies.

Red Clay, Charles Fancher. LOVED this book. Mostly post-Civil War story about the lives of slaves in Alabama during Reconstruction.

Stars in an Italian Sky, Jill Santopolo. Dual time line, 1946 and recent time. Love stories and a mystery.

Battle Mountain, C.J. Box. Another one of Box’s riveting mysteries. Love his descriptions of the land.

Something Beautiful Happened, Yvette Corporon. A memoir of sorts in Greece, tiny island of Erikousa, where the locals hid Jews during WWII. All elusive stories told by the author’s grandmother.

The Jackal’s Mistress, Chris Bohjalian. 1860s Virginia, about a woman who saves the life of a Union soldier. Really good story.

Song of the Magpie, Louise Mayberry. Really interesting story about Australia back in the days when it was mostly a penal colony. Gritty strength of a woman trying to thrive with her farm.

The Boomerang, Robert Bailey. A thriller that will have you gripping the book. About a lot of secrets surrounding the president (fictional novel, remember) and his chief of staff and about cancer. A cure. Such a good story.

Care and Feeding, Laurie Woolever. Really interesting memoir of a woman driven to succeed in the restaurant business. She worked for Mario Batali and then Anthony Bourdain. Gritty stories.

Everything is Tuberculosis, John Green. Maybe not a book for everyone. A real deep dive into the deadly tuberculosis infection, its history. I heard the author interviewed and found the book very interesting.

The Book Lovers Library, Madeline Martin. Fascinating read about Boots’ drug stores’ lending library. And the people who worked in them.

The Arrivals, Meg Mitchell Moore. LOL funny, about a middle-aged couple whose children (and their various family members) return to the family home and the chaos that ensues.

My Life as a Silent Movie, Jesse Lee Kercheval. About grief. A big move to Paris, finding herself a new life with a new set of real blood family.

Escape, Carolyn Jessop. Another memoir about a woman really in bondage in Utah, Mormon plural marriage.

 

Tasting Spoons

My blog's namesake - small, old and some very dented engraved silver plated tea spoons that belonged to my mother-in-law, and I use them to taste my food as I'm cooking.

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Posted in Cookies, Desserts, on March 26th, 2012.

chewy_rich_brownies

If you’re the kind of person who likes the TASTE and TEXTURE of boxed-mix brownies, but really want to make them from scratch, to give them more chocolaty flavor, this will hit all your buttons.

Surely I’ve mentioned before that when I go to sleep at night I usually plug into my iTouch, using my earbuds, to podcasts that I’ve subscribed to through iTunes. About every 2 weeks or so I need to re-charge it and download all the oodles of new podcasts that are in my queue. Recently I heard or read that Cook’s Illustrated, well actually the folks at America’s Test Kitchen decided to start doing a radio show and podcast with Chris Kimball and Bridget Lancaster. I immediately signed up through iTunes. Each episode is about an hour (no commercials on podcasts, either). When I’m ready to drift off to sleep I generally set my iTouch to play for about 15 minutes and 99% of the time I’m asleep by then. The next night I may go back and replay it if I have no recollection of what I listened to.

Anyway, this new podcast is really interesting. I’m liking it a LOT, actually, and it was on a recent show that they talked about brownies. Through some survey they did, it was discovered that many people like the texture – the chewiness – of box-mix brownies. But the chocolate flavor is muted. Certainly not enough chocolate is contained in those mixes. So the C.I. people began a search for the perfect chewy brownie (you do have to have a free membership with C.I. in order to get to the recipe, but that’s the link) with that wonderful crackly top that is so reminiscent of those box mix types. But one that contained some really good, true flavor of chocolate. I enjoyed listening to all the steps they went through to finally discern that they were completely on the wrong track about the fats – they needed to use more oil than butter. They used a combination of Dutch-process cocoa and unsweetened chocolate in the batter and a few ounces of chocolate bits folded in at the end. They also tried baking the brownies on a pizza stone (somewhere they read that increasing the heat on the bottom of the brownie pan helped make a chewy texture). Their tests said no. Another recommendation was to add caramel sauce to the batter, to add chewiness. Nope, that didn’t work either. And lastly, they were advised to put the cooked pan in an ice bath; they didn’t find that was successful in making a chewy brownie either. It took a visit to their science editor to learn more about ratios of fat and they finally got on the right track.

These LOOK like box mix brownies. And they definitely DO have the texture like box mix brownies. And chocolate – that’s in there too. Plus some espresso powder – I just LOVE the King Arthur espresso powder – it’s a fine grind dried espresso – never clumps or spoils (as I write this, their website says they’re out of it . . . check back). What it does is enhance the flavor of chocolate – they just go together like Jamocha Almond Fudge! I watched the interior temp carefully – the directions said to use a toothpick halfway between the edges and middle. I actually took the internal temp there. At 30 minutes it was 208°. I baked another 5 minutes and removed them without taking the temp again. Maybe I should have. I preferred the brownies from the outer edges – they had just a bit of drying edges, which I liked. The interior pieces were on the wet/moist side. Dense, although they weren’t under done by any means. Kind of like in between brownies and fudge almost.

What I liked: all of the things I was supposed to like about this type of chewy brownie – texture, chocolate flavor, crumb and appearance! Will it become my new favorite – probably not (and that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t try it, it’s just that I think I prefer a little less sweet brownie and one with a slightly drier texture). I do like those box-mix brownies, although I’ve only made one of them once in many years, so I’m glad I tried these.

What I didn’t like: nothing, really, if you prefer this type of brownie. That almost sounds like it’s a negative comment – it’s not meant to be. I might possibly bake them to 212° next time just to see what happens since at 210° the interior pieces were still very moist for my taste.

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Chewy Brownies

Recipe By: America’s Test Kitchen
Serving Size: 24

1/3 cup Dutch process cocoa powder
1 1/2 teaspoons espresso coffee — dry granule type (optional)
1/2 cup boiling water — plus 2 tablespoons
2 ounces unsweetened chocolate — finely chopped (see note)
4 tablespoons unsalted butter — (1/2 stick) melted
1/2 cup vegetable oil — plus 2 tablespoons
2 large eggs
2 large egg yolks
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
2 1/2 cups sugar — (17 1/2 ounces)
1 3/4 cups all purpose flour — (8 3/4 ounces)
3/4 teaspoon table salt
6 ounces bittersweet chocolate — cut into 1/2-inch pieces

1. Adjust oven rack to lowest position and heat oven to 350 degrees. Referring to directions in Making a Foil Sling (related), make sling using the following steps: Cut 18-inch length foil and fold lengthwise to 8-inch width. Fit foil into length of 13 by 9-inch baking pan, pushing it into corners and up sides of pan; allow excess to overhang pan edges. Cut 14-inch length foil and fit into width of pan in the same manner, perpendicular to the first sheet (if using extra-wide foil, fold second sheet lengthwise to 12-inch width). Spray with nonstick cooking spray.
2. Whisk cocoa, espresso powder (if using), and boiling water together in large bowl until smooth. Add unsweetened chocolate and whisk until chocolate is melted. Whisk in melted butter and oil. (Mixture may look curdled.) Add eggs, yolks, and vanilla and continue to whisk until smooth and homogeneous. Whisk in sugar until fully incorporated. Add flour and salt and mix with rubber spatula until combined. Fold in bittersweet chocolate pieces.
3. Scrape batter into prepared pan and bake until toothpick inserted halfway between edge and center comes out with just a few moist crumbs attached, 30 to 35 minutes (until the interior temperature is 210°). Transfer pan to wire rack and cool 1½ hours.
4. Using foil overhang, lift brownies from pan. Return brownies to wire rack and let cool completely, about 1 hour. Cut into 2-inch squares and serve. Will keep 2 days (covered) at room temp. Otherwise, freeze them.
Per Serving: 235 Calories; 13g Fat (45.7% calories from fat); 3g Protein; 31g Carbohydrate; 2g Dietary Fiber; 41mg Cholesterol; 82mg Sodium.

Posted in Fish, Salads, on March 24th, 2012.

grilled_orange_rice_noodle_crab_salad

A so-very refreshing salad made with some grilled Cara Cara orange segments, some of those ultra-thin rice noodles, crab (or you could use chicken, or shrimp even) with a tangy citrus, garlic, lemon grass dressing. Add veggies of your choice (this one contains cucumber, carrots and mint).

It’s really quite fun cooking when somebody else has done all the sous-chef work, the grunt work. At the class I attended (sponsored by Sunkist, to introduce me to the cara cara oranges), they set up little work stations including one of those free-standing induction cooktops for each group of 3, so we grilled the oranges for this salad (I’d not done that before), made the dressing and put the salad together right there. We added in cucumber, a bunch of julienned carrots, a bunch of fresh mint and topped the salad with some chopped peanuts.

The oranges are drenched in a bit of the dressing, then grilled just long enough to get pretty grill marks on them, then they can be removed. This could be made ahead of time as the oranges don’t need to be served hot. The point is just to make them attractive! The rice noodles could be made an hour or so ahead of time too, although when they sit, they start getting sticky and it’s much harder to separate the strands. You don’t want big clumps of noodles that are very hard to eat. When you toss the dressing into the noodle mixture, mix it around – best method is your hands, although we didn’t do that!  – and separate the noodles as much as you can.

Over the years I’ve learned that it’s best to mix the main ingredients together and leave out the protein (crab, shrimp, chicken) and put those on each serving, so each person gets the same amount. Put a little bit of dressing on the crab too so all of the salad is dressed. You could add some sugar snap peas, some snow peas, some blanched asparagus cut up in pieces, even some very small florets of broccoli. It might not be quite so authentic, but it would be good! Put the pretty oranges on top, decoratively and you’re set. A bunch of green onions would be good in this too, including some of the dark green part.

What I liked: It was such a beautiful salad – the color contrasts were gorgeous (I suppose that’s the artist’s eye in me). The taste: really yummy. I liked the different textures and particularly liked the addition of the citrus.

What I didn’t like: really nothing. We don’t eat many carb-centric dishes, however, so it would be a special treat. I liked the crab and also think shrimp would be a great alternative. Worth making.

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Grilled Orange, Rice Noodle and Crab Salad

Recipe By: Robert Danhi, consulting chef for Sunkist Growers
Serving Size: 6
NOTES: Next time I make this I’ll be using some snow peas, or sugar snap peas, more carrots, some green onions. Make certain you add enough dressing as the noodles will soak it up! Their recipe thought this would feed 4, but I think it would serve more, so I’ve guess-timated 6.

DRESSING:
6 ounces fresh lime juice
6 ounces fresh orange juice — Cara Cara, or any sweet orange
6 ounces Thai sweet chili sauce
2 ounces fish sauce
1/4 cup fresh garlic — minced
1/4 cup lemon grass — only the white part, finely miinced
SALAD:
1/2 pound rice noodles — (dry)
3 ounces cucumber — julienned
3 oou fresh carrots — julienned
1/4 cup fresh mint — chopped
1 pound lump crabmeat — (not snow crab)
ORANGES and GARNISH:
5 whole oranges — sweet, like Navel or Cara Cara
1/2 cup fresh cilantro — chopped
3/4 cup peanuts — chopped

1. DRESSING: Combine all ingredients in a bowl and whisk. (You may not use all the dressing.)
2. SALAD: Soak noodles in warm water (about 90°) for 15 minutes. Drain well. In a gallon of boiling water, cook noodles for about 2 minutes. Drain and rinse under cool tap water.
3. In a large bowl combine the noodles, cucumber, carrots and mint. Add a small amount of the dressing to the crab meat and set aside.
4. ORANGES: After cutting off the peel, cut each orange into about 6 wedges (these are not individual orange segments, but wedges – you need some of the connecting membranes to hold the orange pieces together during grilling). Gently toss the orange pieces with about 2 ounces of the dressing. Heat a grill (stovetop is fine) to medium high and oil it, then add the orange segments on both cut surfaces for about 30 seconds per side, just long enough to get some grill marks on them. Do not over cook them! Remove and set aside.
5. Add dressing to the noodle mixture (enough to suit your taste) and toss. Place portions out on plates, then top with the crab meat (and any dressing on it), grilled oranges, cilantro, and peanuts. Serve.
Per Serving: 481 Calories; 11g Fat (21.0% calories from fat); 21g Protein; 76g Carbohydrate; 6g Dietary Fiber; 60mg Cholesterol; 444mg Sodium.

Posted in Grilling, Pork, on March 22nd, 2012.

balsamic_pork_tenderloin

Shall I just tell you that if I’d had a spoon, mine would have been in the pot of sauce, eating spoonful after spoonful of that balsamic and goat cheese combination; it was THAT good. What you see on the right front is a grilled cipollini onion – a VERY grilled cipollini. You might think it’s burned – nope! Absolutely meltingly tender.

A couple of weeks ago I attended a cooking class with James Clark, the chef at Croce’s Restaurant and Jazz Bar in San Diego. He was a very charming man and had all of us 50+ students nearly eating out of his hand (well, not literally). With a few stories interspersed throughout his monologue, this recipe was a real standout. And as I mentioned above, if I could have had a little BOWL of the sauce on the side, it would have been eaten straight. It was just addictive. The class was busy – well, I mean HE was busy. First he made soup, the Croce’s Mulligatawny Soup. Then he made twice-baked potatoes (I probably won’t write up that one just because it’s so simple: to the whipped potatoes, just add butter, goat cheese, parsley, salt and pepper and half and half and put them back into the potato skin; bake them about 15 minutes, along with the cipollini onions), he prepped the asparagus and the cipollini, made the glaze, the marinade. And he made the salad – I’ve written that up already: Pear, Arugula and Fennel Salad. That one was so good. I have one more recipe to go, as well, the dessert. You’ll get all the recipes from this class eventually.

The pork is marinated for 2-3 hours (no longer, no overnight marinade), grilled, then baked in the oven. It rests 5 minutes then it’s sliced and served with the cipollini onions and asparagus. AND the fabulous balsamic goat cheese glaze drizzled all over it. Make it, okay?

What I liked: the sauce, the sauce, the sauce. And the onions too. Pork was lovely too.

What I didn’t like: nothing – it looked easy to do, and some of the work can be done ahead.

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White Balsamic-Marinated Pork Tenderloin

Recipe By: From James Clark, chef at Croce’s
Restaurant and Jazz Bar, San Diego
Serving Size: 6

WHITE BALSAMIC MARINADE:
1/2 cup white balsamic vinegar
1 cup olive oil
1 tablespoon minced garlic
1 tablespoon fresh parsley — minced
1 tablespoon fresh basil — minced
1 tablespoon fresh oregano — minced
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 pounds pork tenderloin — (about 1 pound each), trimmed of fat and silverskin
GOAT CHEESE BALSAMIC GLAZE:
1 cup balsamic vinegar
1/4 cup sugar
1/4 cup goat cheese — soft, Chevre type
1 tablespoon fresh thyme — minced
VEGETABLES:
1 pound fresh asparagus — trimmed of root ends (if they are very large, par-boil them for 2-3 minutes and finish them on the grill)
12 whole cipollini onions — peeled, left whole

1. Combine all the ingredients in a freezer-weight Ziploc bag and add the pork tenderloin. Seal, squish it around, turn it over and refrigerate for 2-3 hours (do not leave this overnight). Remove meat from marinade and pat dry with paper towels.
2. GLAZE: Combine the balsamic vinegar and sugar in a medium sized saucepan. Bring to a boil and simmer the sauce until it has reduced by half. Add the crumbled goat cheese and fresh thyme. Keep warm on very, very low heat until ready to serve. (Can be made a few hours ahead.)
3. GRILL and BAKE: Preheat a convection oven (if you have that option) to 350° and heat an outdoor grill to medium-high. Season the pork and vegetables with salt and pepper. Cook the pork tenderloin first, until you have grill marks on all sides then remove to the oven and cook until it reaches an internal temp of 125° to 135° (medium-rare at the low temp, toward medium at the higher temp). Remove and allow to rest for 5 minutes, loosely covered with foil. Meanwhile, grill the vegetables. The onions will take longer, but grill them until they are blackened (about 15 minutes). Slice the meat and serve with the balsamic goat cheese glaze drizzled over the pork. Place vegetables on the side.
Per Serving: 600 Calories; 43g Fat (64.1% calories from fat); 35g Protein; 19g Carbohydrate; 2g Dietary Fiber; 103mg Cholesterol; 225mg Sodium.

Posted in Soups, on March 20th, 2012.

cream_of_asparagus_soup

This creamy asparagus soup was our dinner the other night – ‘tis the season for asparagus and I had a big bunch to use up. Nothing very different about it – just a good old-fashioned thick and creamy soup with some crème fraiche and fresh chives.

What I needed was an asparagus soup recipe that didn’t require me to go to the market, so I went to Eat Your Books and found one right away, in Dorie Greenspan’s book, Around My French Table: More Than 300 Recipes from My Home to Yours. I didn’t cleave to her recipe exactly, but close enough that I can say my recipe below was inspired by hers. But then, asparagus soup can only have so many ingredients, right? Asparagus, either onion or leeks, maybe garlic, maybe not, some cream or half and half (I used both), chicken broth, maybe shallots. This recipe doesn’t disappoint. Our fresh chives are just growing to beat the band lately, so I used a bunch for garnish. And the crème fraiche for a little blob of goodness on top.

Her recipe called for 2+ pounds of asparagus. I didn’t have that much – we’d already had one or two meals with asparagus, so this was about 1 1/4 pounds. But you know what? Soup is very forgiving. If you have a pound – use that. If you don’t have garlic, eliminate it. No leeks? Well, use more onion. No chicken broth? Use vegetable broth or water. Wing it – that’s what I do all the time. This recipe also uses the asparagus root ends to add extra flavor. I liked that part – asparagus is such a subtle, delicate flavor that it’s nice to have more of it! It’s a bit of a nuisance to do because those parts gets scooped out and discarded. I re-arranged the recipe to make it easier. I think Dorie’s recipe has you make the entire soup in one pot, but I wanted to speed up the process and used two.

What I liked: the consistency – I didn’t strain the soup, so it had plenty of texture from the asparagus, leeks and onions. It is whizzed up in the blender (I used my immersion blender in the pot) so it’s a smooth soup. Loved the dollop of crème fraiche too.

What I didn’t like: nary a thing. Just that I didn’t make enough of it! Wish I’d had more asparagus.

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Cream of Asparagus Soup

Recipe By: Adapted from Dorie Greenspan’s Around My French Table
Serving Size: 6

1 1/2 pounds fresh asparagus
2 quarts water
1 teaspoon kosher salt
2 tablespoons oil
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 whole onion — diced
2 whole leeks — cleaned, chopped
2 whole shallots — peeled, diced
1 large garlic clove — peeled, mashed
1 teaspoon chicken soup base — (the concentrate) [I used my Penzey’s base]
2 cups half and half
1/3 cup heavy cream
2 tablespoons unsalted butter — added at the end (optional)
4 tablespoons creme fraiche — for garnish
1 tablespoon fresh chives — for garnish

1. ASPARAGUS: wash and clean. Pull the top of each spear down, holding the stem with your other hand. It will break off where it should. Place tops in one pile; the bottoms in another pile.
2. Add water to a large soup pot and bring to a boil. Add the asparagus bottoms. Simmer for about 10 minutes until the asparagus is cooked through. Remove with a slotted spoon and discard. Add the top parts of the asparagus to the water and simmer for about 4 minutes.
3. Meanwhile, in another pot add oil and butter and heat until bubbling. Add the leeks, onions and shallots and saute over low heat for about 10 minutes. Do not burn. Add this mixture to the asparagus mixture. Add chicken soup base. Simmer for about 10 minutes.
4. Use an immersion blender (or pour mixture in batches into a standing blender) to puree. You can pour this pureed mixture through a sieve to remove any of the vegetable fiber (I like it with the texture). Add the half and half and heavy cream. Taste for seasoning. Heat mixture JUST below a simmer, about 5 minutes, and serve. Do not boil this mixture or it will separate. Add butter at the end if desired.
5. Scoop about 1 1/2 cups of soup into each bowl and garnish with creme fraiche and chives.
Per Serving: 342 Calories; 30g Fat (74.7% calories from fat); 6g Protein; 16g Carbohydrate; 3g Dietary Fiber; 77mg Cholesterol; 476mg Sodium.

Posted in Books, Essays, on March 18th, 2012.

extravirginitybook

First I must tell you I actually haven’t read this book, Extra Virginity: The Sublime and Scandalous World of Olive Oil . I have 3 books going right now and there’s definitely not time in the near future for me to add another. But I would like to read it (I’ve ordered it actually), especially after reading the review of it in the Los Angeles Times  last weekend. It’s the review that prompted me to go searching further on the subject. And to write up this post about it.

If you do a search for the title of the book you’ll find any number of links, to amazon of course, but also to NPR who did a review of it. Also a couple of naysayers who have olive oil blogs or websites. And I’m no expert – I’m only telling you about what I read in the article in the Times.

Russ Parsons (the Time’ reviewer), a long time writer for the newspaper, and major food/recipe contributor, is someone I trust. I like the way he writes. I like what he writes. In this article he talked about how, in 1985, he heard from a friend who had just returned from Tuscany, that there had been a major freeze there, which cracked most of the producing olive trees in half, killing them. So Parsons jumped to the conclusion that there would [surely] be a deep shortage of Tuscan olive oil the following year. Indeed, the Tuscan trees were devastated. But that next year, using a little-known fact about the agricultural system in Italy, the olive oil producers in Tuscany merely imported oil from Spain and Algeria. It didn’t matter how much “real” Tuscan oil was in the can or bottle – they could use mostly Spanish and Algerian for that matter and still call it extra virgin Italian (Tuscan) olive oil. It’s also supposed that there was a lot – a LOT of cottonseed oil added to the olive oil too (also okay by Italian regulations).

What we may know as “light” olive oil is actually (most likely anyway) low grade olive oil mixed with cottonseed oil to thin it out, making it less olive-y, less pungent. So why not just use vegetable oil? Indeed!

So based on that, I’m paying heed to Mueller’s points. So who is Tom Mueller? He’s a writer for the New Yorker,  but he lives in Liguria amidst his large olive tree farm. Over the years, he obviously has done a lot of research about olive oil – probably a real eye-opener when he discovered that the Italian rules are rather lax about the derivation of their olive oil. And incidentally, that phrase about “first press” or “cold press” oils – that’s all bunk, because really nobody actually uses an olive press anymore – they use more modern equipment.

I did a bit of sleuthing and found this quote from his very interesting website.

[During the writing of the book, I] immersed myself in olive oil. I’ve traveled on 4 continents, meeting olive millers and oil-bottlers, lipid chemists and fraud investigators, oil-making monks and oil crooks, chefs and government regulators and oil sommeliers, as well as countless eager consumers, some of them life-long experts, others enjoying their first taste of great oil. In the process I’ve learned a lot about one of humankind’s most magnificent foods, this essence of health and flavor. I’ve met olive growers and oil-makers whose divine nectars deserve to be celebrated around the world, treated with reverence and gratefulness. And I’ve seen that they’re losing their shirts.

The book, I’m supposing from the article, tells you which olive oil producers are the fraudsters (his word) and which are reputable. We all know we can buy very expensive olive oil, and we can buy the cheap stuff at the grocery store. Those cheap brands likely contain a significant amount of cottonseed oil and little actual olive oil. Price doesn’t always indicate quality, either, although it should go some distance that way. If I paraphrase the article, it does indicate you should choose an extra virgin olive oil that indicates an expiration date – the better producers do that – they’ll provide a lot number and a use-by date.

Until the book arrives and I have time to read it, I’ll just have to use my trusted brands. I think I read recently that Costco’s Kirkland brand is a fairly good olive oil – I use it for some things. I have several others than are better oils. I also visit a little olive oil store about 20 miles from our house (they carry just oils and vinegars, under their own labels, mostly infused with herbs, spices, and fruits). You probably know already that you don’t need to use EVOO for frying – you never garner the flavor from it for frying – use a vegetable oil (in fact my most recent Cook’s Illustrated, they tested brands of oil and Crisco’s Natural Blend was the clear #1. I don’t know that I’ve ever seen it in any market. Anyway, their test was preparing home made mayonnaise and using the oil for frying. All the oils preformed differently depending on the use, but this one, the Crisco Natural Blend, brought the best flavor to the mayo, as well as frying. Anyway, don’t waste good EVOO for anything unless the flavor is going to come through. You’re paying for that flavor, be it bland or peppery, herby or floral, and you might as well taste it. So that would mean relatively plain salad dressings or drizzles on things. Don’t use it for frying, for baking, or in your favorite carrot cake. Use a very bland oil instead, like the one above. So there’s your olive oil lesson for the day!

Posted in Salads, on March 16th, 2012.

pear_arugula_fennel_gorg_salad

Ah, my mouth is watering just looking at this salad. Love those arugula leaves. And the pear, the Gorgonzola crumbles, and there’s some fresh fennel bits off to the left. The walnuts, well, they’re underneath the pear I think. Altogether delicious.

Almost every upscale restaurant serves arugula in some way, shape or form these days. It’s such an “in” green. Trader Joe’s sells baby arugula, which is the ideal for this salad. You could get all the ingredients there, actually, including the Gorgonzola cheese, pears and fennel. I happen to really like the peppery taste of arugula, but I understand, it’s not everyone’s favorite choice. If that’s the case, just substitute some other green like mache or even Romaine.

The recipe came from the cooking class with James Clark, the chef at Croce’s in San Diego. I would suppose this is one of their signature salads, although since I haven’t been there, I really can’t say for sure. The recipe, though, is from the next cookbook he and Ingrid Croce are publishing – I know that because James made a photocopy of the proof copy. He had explained to us that the previous couple of days he was bleary-eyed from re-reading the cookbook. Again and again. Fixing little things, typo’s and such. Since I was in the advertising business, I know proofreading well!

This salad is just delicious, that’s all I can say. Fresh fennel is finely sliced, Gorgonzola cheese is crumbled, walnuts are toasted, the Champagne vinegar vinaigrette is whizzed up in the blender and you’ll be all set. Plate the salad and add the cheese, walnuts and at the last minute slice the pears. Serve.

What I liked: the crunchy, peppery flavor of the arugula; the Gorgonzola crumbles (maybe because they’re not the norm like Feta or Blue Cheese); the toasted walnuts. Well, and the fennel too. Oh, heck, I just liked it all.

What I didn’t like: nothing at all.

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Pear, Arugula and Fennel Salad

Recipe By: Adapted slightly from James Clark, Croce’s Restaurant, San Diego, 3/2012
Serving Size: 8
NOTES: If you make this according to the restaurant’s version, the dressing is a bit on the tart side. I think it needs just a tiny jot of sweet – sugar, agave or honey (see note in ingredients).

CHAMPAGNE VINAIGRETTE:
1 tablespoon shallots — minced
1 teaspoon garlic — minced
1/2 cup champagne wine vinegar
1 cup extra virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon sugar — or honey [my addition]
1/4 teaspoon star anise — ground to a powder
SALAD:
1 small fennel bulb — very thinly sliced
1 pound arugula — baby leaves
2 whole pears — Bosc or red
1/2 cup gorgonzola cheese — crumbled
1/2 cup walnuts — toasted, chopped

1. VINAIGRETTE: Puree all the ingredients in a blender until thoroughly mixed. Dressing will not emulsify because there are no ingredients in it to help it do so, so you’ll need to put it in a shaker container and shake vigorously before serving it. Dressing will keep for up to a month.
2. SALAD: In a mixing bowl combine the fennel, arugula and add the vinaigrette to taste. You will not use all the vinaigrette. Place on each plate and top with gorgonzola crumbles, sliced pear and walnuts.
Per Serving (you probably won’t use all the dressing, so these numbers are high): 386 Calories; 37g Fat (81.2% calories from fat); 7g Protein; 13g Carbohydrate; 3g Dietary Fiber; 13mg Cholesterol; 466mg Sodium.

Posted in Soups, on March 14th, 2012.

croces_mulligatawny_soup

A really delicious curry-enhanced chicken, vegetable and rice soup. And it’s from Croce’s Restaurant in San Diego. A recipe from Jim Croce’s widow, Ingrid Croce.

Some years ago I wrote up my version of Mulligatawny Soup. It’s very similar to this one – some of the proportions are different, but this one contains carrots (I liked that part), a few different spices (I liked that part too). My recipe is a lower calorie one (using fat-free half and half) and it also includes a bit of apple. Not every Mulligatawny soup has apple. This one uses heavy cream, butter and ample veggies.

I probably wouldn’t have tried this one, only because I have a recipe I make and like. But I was attending a cooking class with Ingrid Croce and her executive chef, James Clark. This was the first course, and I must say, I slurped up every bit in my bowl. If you’re interested, the restaurant is in San Diego, in the Gaslamp District. Not surprisingly, it’s called Croce’s. It’s a jazz bar, and it was suggested that the best night to go there for music is on Sunday. I want to try the restaurant now that I’ve tasted the food from this class. You’ll see two or three more recipes learned in the class eventually. Including an incredibly rich chocolate dessert souffle/lava cake. So stay tuned for that. It was really sensational.

In case you’re interested, Ingrid Croce wrote a book about 16 years ago (15 or so years after Jim Croce died in an airplane accident in 1973). Called Thyme in a Bottle: Memories and Recipes from Croce’s Restaurant, it contains lots of stories about Jim Croce and her recipes, of course. Ingrid was selling her memoir/cookbook for half price at the class, but I actually found a very inexpensive copy through the link above. I love reading cooking stories, and if the two recipes from this class that were hers are any representation, I’ll find other recipes in it that I’ll like too. She and James Clark, the chef, have just finished proofreading a new cookbook. Just an FYI. I think they said it would be out within the next 3-4 months. If you’re interested, I think there will be a class at Great News, the cooking school I go to in San Diego, after the publication.

If you have some chicken meat left over from another meal – and some cooked rice, this soup would be a cinch to make.

What I liked: all the flavors – the curry, the spices, the chicken. The texture too – sort of thick and chewy with the rice. I think this would freeze well too.

What I didn’t like: as is, I think it’s too thick, (and that’s just me – lots of people love a really thick, thick soup) and that’s so easily rectified with adding more broth, so I can hardly say it’s something I dislike. Just adjust the thickness to your preference.

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Croce’s Mulligatawny Soup

Recipe By: Ingrid Croce, Croce’s Restaurant (San Diego) 3/2012
Serving Size: 8

1/2 cup unsalted butter
3/4 cup onion — diced
3/4 cup celery — diced
3/4 cup carrots — diced
4 cloves garlic — minced
1 1/2 pounds cooked chicken
1 1/2 teaspoons turmeric
1 tablespoon fresh ginger — minced
1 teaspoon ground cumin
3 tablespoons curry powder
1 quart low-sodium chicken broth
3/4 cup flour — [maybe less]
3 cups heavy cream
1/4 cup fresh lemon juice
1 1/2 cups cooked basmati rice — [maybe a bit less]
1 tablespoon Sriracha sauce — or Tabasco (more if desired)
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Salt to taste
4 tablespoons fresh parsley — minced

1. CHICKEN: Ideally use chicken breast meat – plunge the boneless, skinless breasts into a pot of just simmering water or low-sodium chicken broth. Simmer for about 5 minutes, until just barely cooked (and it can be pink inside because it will get cooked further in the soup).
2. Melt butter in large saucepan and add onions, celery, carrots, for about 5-7 minutes until just beginning to brown. Add garlic during last minute of cooking.
3. Stir in seasonings and flour. Continue to cook over low flame (bubbling slightly) for about 5 minutes. Do not burn it!
4. Gradually add about half of the chicken stock and bring to a boil. Add all the cream, lemon juice, and Sriracha sauce. Then add salt and pepper to taste.
5. Cook for about 10-15 minutes, checking for consistency and thin out the soup with the remaining chicken stock until it’s the consistency you prefer (I like it a bit thinner).
6. Add chicken meat and rice just during the last 2-3 minutes of cooking time. Soup should be medium-thick and creamy. Add more chicken broth as needed.
7. Serve in bowls with minced parsley sprinkled on top.
Per Serving: 680 Calories; 49g Fat (65.5% calories from fat); 32g Protein; 27g Carbohydrate; 3g Dietary Fiber; 226mg Cholesterol; 186mg Sodium.

Posted in Beef, on March 12th, 2012.

steakhouse_mushroom_burgers_spinach_sauce

A new and different way to make a burger. I used beef, but you could easily-enough use ground turkey or a combination of both. There’s a delicious spinach, onion, and mushroom sauce spooned over the top and it’s nestled on a toasted  piece of bread.

When I saw the photo of this recipe at Pioneer Woman in 2011 (she didn’t cook them, she just had a link), the link sent me to Pink Parsley’s blog – she’s the one who prepared this burger. At the time I just saved it in my to-try internet file on my computer. My recipe program (MasterCook) will sort easily enough, so I looked up ground beef recipes and this one sounded good. Oh, yes, indeed it was.

steakhouse_burgers_rawFirst I must tell you I made a few minor changes to the recipe (I put part of the mushrooms in the sauce; I added another pinch of nutmeg; I used a piece of whole wheat grain bread, regular size, not the Texas toast called for; I added more half and half than indicated to thin out the sauce; I used a 6-ounce pkg of fresh baby spinach, not the 8 ounces called for; and I added 2 more T. of butter to the spinach sauce – after tasting it I thought it needed it).

The burgers are easy enough – some sautéed sliced and chopped mushrooms, garlic, a tiny bit of soy sauce, fresh thyme, fresh parsley, Dijon mustard, salt and pepper all go into the ground beef mix. I patted them out and used the Cook’s Illustrated technique of pressing the center down (a big dip) since burgers always seem to mound up – it worked like a charm, I must say.

Burger Hint:

Did you know that if you press a slight indentation in the center of burgers (see photo above, right front shows it best), when you cook the burgers they’ll be level rather than mounded up in the center, which is so annoying!

Meanwhile, I made the sauce – basically a white sauce with some half and half and chicken broth, some onion, with a jot of nutmeg and cayenne, the spinach (it’s a lot, but it cooks way down, of course) and some Parmigiano cheese. Very easy to make – and if time permits, you can do it an hour ahead and just reheat. I toasted the bread in my toaster oven, grilled the burgers on a stovetop grill, and served it up. A great recipe.

What I liked: the variety of flavors in the dish – the beef, mushrooms, spinach, the cream sauce that makes it silky easy to eat, and the little bit of crispy toast on the bottom. The flavors were wonderful. Definitely worth making. I’m so glad I have 2 burgers left over for another dinner in a night or two.

What I didn’t like: nada, nothing. A definite make again dish.

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Steakhouse Mushroom Burgers

Recipe By: Adapted from Pink Parsley Blog, and she got it from the magazine, Cuisine Tonight: Grilling, 2011
Serving Size: 4

4 ounces mushrooms — sliced and chopped
3 tablespoons olive oil — divided
2 cloves garlic — minced
1 pound ground sirloin
1 tablespoon low-sodium soy sauce
2 teaspoons minced fresh thyme
2 teaspoons minced fresh parsley
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
4 slices bread — buttered Texas Toast type
CREAMED SPINACH SAUCE: (2 cups)
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
3 ounces mushrooms — sliced
1/4 cup minced onion
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1/2 cup half and half — plus more as needed (about another 1/2 cup)
1/2 cup low-sodium chicken broth
kosher salt and black pepper
1 pinch cayenne
2 pinches nutmeg
4 cups chopped fresh spinach
2 tablespoons Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese — grated (added to sauce)
1 1/2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
2 tablespoons unsalted butter — (my addition)
1 tablespoon Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese — grated for garnish

1. Preheat the grill to medium-high.
2. In a medium saute pan, saute the mushrooms in 1 tablespoon of olive oil over medium-high heat. Cook until the mushrooms begin to brown, 3-4 minutes. Stir in garlic and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Season with salt and pepper and remove from heat.
3. In a large bowl, combine the sirloin with 1 tablespoon oil, soy sauce, salt, pepper, mustard, herbs, and mushroom mixture. Gently mix to combine using a fork or your hands. Divide the mixture into 4 equal portions, shaping each portion into a patty.
4. Scrape the grate clean and brush with the remaining tablespoon of oil. Grill the burgers until cooked through, 3-4 minutes per side. Remove the burgers from the grill and cover to keep warm. Grill the bread 1-2 minutes per side, until lightly browned.
5. To make the spinach sauce, melt the butter in a medium saucepan over medium-low heat. Add the onion and mushrooms and cook until onions are translucent, 3-4 minutes. Stir the flour into the onions and cook 1 minute.
6. Whisk in the half-and-half, broth, salt, cayenne, and nutmeg. Bring sauce to a simmer, then reduce heat and simmer for 2 minutes, until it begins to thicken. Add the additional butter and stir until melted.
7. Add the spinach, stirring until wilted. Mix in the Parmesan and lemon juice, and add more half-and-half if the sauce has thickened too much. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
8. Top each slice of bread with a burger, spinach sauce, and garnish with Parmesan. Serve immediately.
Per Serving: 656 Calories; 50g Fat (67.9% calories from fat); 30g Protein; 23g Carbohydrate; 3g Dietary Fiber; 131mg Cholesterol; 757mg Sodium.

Posted in Breads, Brunch, on March 10th, 2012.

blackberry_lemon_thyme_muffins

The minute I spotted this recipe I knew I wanted to try it. Fresh thyme in a sweet muffin? It sounded so interesting. Plus some fresh blackberries, which are available in our markets almost year ‘round now. And lemon – we have an abundance of them on our trees, although in this case it was only the zest that was needed. The recipe is in the most recent issue (March, 2012) of Bon Appetit.

blackberry_muffins_collageSince I love to bake, it was a no-brainer to try this – read the recipe through first (something I often forget to do) – and begin. The crumble topping (cake flour, butter, fresh thyme baking powder, sugar and an egg yolk) is made first and chilled (even a day ahead is okay). The muffin batter has several steps – and in fact this particular batter requires lots of stand-mixer time – 2 minutes of just butter, 2-3 minutes once you add sugar, another 3-4 minutes once you add the eggs and vanilla. Then everything slows down – you add the buttermilk, then the dry ingredients. What it made was a really, really light batter

Meanwhile, the blackberries are halved – that’s not something I’ve ever done before I must admit – and you actually want some of the berries to macerate a bit in the batter to give it some dark berry color. The berries are just folded in, then plopped into lined muffin cups. The recipe indicated using those fancy paper liners – the tall, waxed paper type that makes a very large muffin. I just used regular muffin liners and my regular muffin tin. The chilled crumble is sprinkled on top (about a tablespoon per muffin) and into a 325° oven they went for 40 minutes. I ended up with quite a bit of topping leftover – I suppose I should have made 18 muffins, or even 20 of them so I used up all of the crumble. Don’t know exactly what I’m going to do with the rest of it. It’s too nice to throw out . . . any ideas for me, kind readers?

Since I now have a Thermapen Instant Read Thermometer (wow, is that thing a real beauty – expensive – but it does register temp within about 3 seconds) I use it at any and all occasions. I quickly looked up online what temp the interior is supposed to be of a baked sweet muffin – it said 210°, and at 40 minutes that’s exactly what they were. They cooled in the tin for about 10 minutes, then I took them out and onto a rack while I baked the remaining 4 muffins (the recipe makes 16).

My DH has just planted a new herb garden for me – in two deep and long raised flowerboxes that sit outside on a short wall in our patio, and we have new, tender thyme in one. I chopped up two teaspoons of it (one went in the crumble topping, the other in the muffin batter itself – next time I’d add more).

What I liked: well, I liked the thyme. A lot and I’ve upped the amount in the batter by half (from 1 tsp to 1 1/2 tsp). Loved the blackberries. I’d also add just a bit more sugar. Maybe because an insufficient amount of the topping ended up on top (where there was some sugar) the muffins were just a bit too savory. I’d have to try them again to know for sure. I’ve increased the sugar in the recipe below or serve with a sweetened butter. I liked the silky cake-like texture (from the cake flour and all the long mixing). I also liked that each muffin had just 11 grams of fat! Surprising, when there was a cube of butter in the batter and 3/4 of one in the crumble.

What I didn’t like: really nothing – all the flavors were delish, and the cake so very tender. I might add some toasted walnuts? More vanilla?

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Blackberry, Lemon and Thyme Muffins

Recipe By: Adapted from Bon Appetit, March 2012
Serving Size: 16
NOTES: Can be made 1 day ahead. Store cooled muffins airtight at room temperature for up to 2 days. If storing longer, freeze, individually wrapped in foil and in a sealed plastic bag.

CRUMBLE:
1 cup cake flour
1/4 cup sugar
1 1/2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
6 tablespoons unsalted butter — (3/4 stick) chilled, cut into 1/4″ cubes
1 large egg yolk
MUFFINS:
1 cup all-purpose flour — plus 2 tablespoons (for blackberries)
1 cup cake flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
3/4 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 cup unsalted butter — 1 stick, room temperature
1 1/4 cups sugar
2 large eggs
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 cup buttermilk
2 tablespoons lemon zest — finely grated
1 1/2 cups blackberries — fresh, about 6 ounces, or frozen, thawed, drained, halved lengthwise
1 1/2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme

1. CRUMBLE: Whisk first 5 ingredients in a medium bowl. Add butter. Using your fingertips, rub in butter until pea-size lumps form. Add egg yolk; stir to evenly distribute and form moist clumps. (Crumble should resemble a mixture of pebbles and sand.) Chill for at least 1 hour. DO AHEAD: Can be made 3 days ahead. Cover and keep chilled.
2. MUFFINS: Preheat oven to 325°F. If making standard-size muffins, line 16 1/3-cup molds with paper liners.
3. Whisk 1 cup all-purpose flour and next 4 ingredients in a medium bowl.
4. Using an electric mixer, beat butter until pale and creamy, about 2 minutes. Add sugar and continue to beat until well incorporated, 2-3 minutes longer.
5. Whisk eggs and vanilla in a small bowl to blend; gradually beat into butter mixture. Continue beating until light and fluffy, 3-4 minutes. Combine buttermilk and lemon zest in a small bowl; gradually beat into butter mixture. Add dry ingredients; beat just to blend (do not overmix).
6. Toss blackberries and thyme with 2 tablespoons flour in another small bowl; fold into batter, gently crushing berries slightly to release some juices.
7. Spoon about 2/3 cup batter into large paper muffin molds, or divide between prepared muffin pans. Top each large muffin with 2 tablespoons crumble or each small muffin with 1 rounded tablespoon crumble.
8. Bake until tops are golden brown and a tester comes out clean when inserted into center (or to an internal temperature of 210°), about 50 minutes for large muffins and 40 minutes for standard-size muffins. Let cool in pan at least 20 minutes, then transfer muffins to a wire rack to cool. Serve warm or at room temperature.
Per Serving: 267 Calories; 11g Fat (38.0% calories from fat); 4g Protein; 38g Carbohydrate; 1g Dietary Fiber; 67mg Cholesterol; 308mg Sodium.

Posted in Chicken, Salad Dressings, Salads, on March 8th, 2012.

deconstructed_chicken_caesar_salad

There’s a short story to tell: when I was still in college (oh, many years ago) I worked every Friday night and all day Saturday at Marston’s (an old family-run San Diego department store). I worked in the Personnel Dept. (remember when they used to call Human Resources the Personnel Dept.?). My job was to train new sales employees – things like how to use the cash register (no electronics at all although they were electrically run). And about the company’s general policies including ethics – plus some limited safety info – mostly boring stuff. Anyway, on Saturdays when I wasn’t teaching I’d walk to a diner a few blocks away. They had a Caesar Salad on their menu that I was crazy about. It was just the best. It had all the elements of a perfect Caesar – Romaine, an egg-based olive oil dressing with good Parmesan, some big honkin’ croutons and a strip or two of anchovies on top. And lemon. That began my my appetite for anything Caesar, I’ll tell you. Hence you’ll find many Caesar type dressings here on my blog.

It would logically follow, then, that as I was reading the most recent issue of Bon Appetit, I was motivated by a recipe in the issue for a Parmesan Chicken and Caesar Roasted Romaine (salad). As I’m writing this, it’s not yet “up” on epicurious or I’d link to it. It got me to thinking. I had everything I needed to make this, but I wanted some dressing on the salad. So I improvised a bit, although I roasted the chicken and Romaine as indicated in the recipe. I went to my current favorite Caesar dressing – a Phillis Carey one that is cinchy easy made with mayo as the base. I’ve printed it up below as a separate recipe – you need that recipe IF you like Caesar. Phillis served it on a steak salad (and I wrote it up then as an integral part of that salad) at a cooking class a couple of years ago and I’ve been a fan of it ever since!

It was an easy dinner. Well – let me re-phrase that – it took me one hour to do it all – make the dressing, prep the chicken, make the panko crumb topping, prep the Romaine, heat the oven, roast the chicken, then roast the Romaine, cook some haricot verts (my very favorite recipe, garlic green beans), toss them in a skillet with some garlic and olive oil, plate it, drizzle on some of the Mayo Caesar dressing and serve! Whew! I felt a little like a one-armed paper hangar. Normally time isn’t of an element, but we had choir rehearsal and my magic time is “sit down to eat by 6:00.” We made it at 6:05, fortunately. (As an aside – we had sufficient leftovers of the chicken – so I chopped them up, cut up about a cup of the garlic green beans, made a Romaine salad with tomatoes, celery – and tossed it with more of the Mayo Caesar Dressing – that was out dinner the next night.)

pecorino_trufflesThe photo at left shows you one little deviation. I have good Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, but I decided to use some Pecorino cheese I bought recently that contains some truffles. You can see some of the truffle stuff (little black specks). Oh does it make this cheese fantastic. It’s called Pecorino al Tartufo. It was sprinkled on top of the salad only – I used good Parmigiano for the dressing.

chicken_caesar_roastingOnce I lightly pounded the chicken breasts, they were placed on a large baking sheet (you need a large one to fit the big Romaine head halves). The panko crumb/cheese mixture was spooned on top and it went into the oven for exactly 10 minutes. The crumb mixture had just started to brown. Meanwhile I had brushed the cut Romaine halves with olive oil. They went on the tray and were baked another 5 minutes. At that point I didn’t think the lettuce had enough color, so I turned the oven on the broil for about 1 minute only (more and the chicken would have turned too firm and the Romaine would have been a black mess). Remove and serve. With the dressing dribbled over the Romaine and some cheese sprinkled on top.

What I liked: the overall taste – but then I love chicken Caesar salad under most circumstances. As long as the dressing is good.

What I didn’t like: not a thing. Delicious.

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Deconstructed Chicken Caesar Salad

Recipe By: Adapted from Bon Appetit, 2012
Serving Size: 4
NOTES: I used a little sprinkle of Pecorino cheese on top of the roasted Romaine – and what I had contained some truffles. You can use regular Pecorino, or Parmigiano too.

4 pieces boneless skinless chicken breast halves
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1/2 cup Pecorino Romano cheese — grated (or Parmigiano)
1/2 cup panko bread crumbs
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoons Italian parsley
2 large garlic cloves — smashed, minced
GRILLED ROMAINE:
2 whole Romaine lettuce — heads, halved lengthwise
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
1 whole lemon — cut in wedges, on each plate
About 1/2 cup Mayo Caesar Dressing
1/4 cup Pecorino Romano cheese — grated, for garnish on the lettuce (or Parmigiano)

1. Trim chicken breasts as needed, and pound them slightly to an even 1/2 inch thickness.
2. Sprinkle chicken with salt and pepper to taste.
3. In a small bowl mix together the cheese, panko, olive oil, parsley and smashed garlic.
4. Preheat oven to 450°.
5. Using a large baking sheet, line it with foil. Place the chicken breasts on the foil. Gently spoon the cheese/panko mixture on top of each breast.
6. Bake for 10 minutes, until the topping has just begun to brown (no longer).
7. Meanwhile, cut the Romaine heads in half, lengthwise, leaving some of the root end intact, so it holds together. Brush the cut side of each half with oil.
8. After the chicken has roasted for 10 minutes, remove pan and place the oiled Romaine heads on the baking sheet, and try to roll them so the cut edge is level, if possible. Return to oven and continue roasting for about 5 more minutes. Watch the pan carefully. If the Romaine hasn’t browned much, turn heat element to broil, and cook for about 1 more minute, just so the Romaine begins to brown on the edges (not necessary for the cooking, but it looks more interesting).
9. Place chicken breast on each plate, with the Romaine half next to it. Drizzle the Romaine with the Mayo Caesar Dressing. Sprinkle with additional Pecorino cheese, if desired.
Per Serving: 377 Calories; 17g Fat (39.8% calories from fat); 41g Protein; 17g Carbohydrate; 7g Dietary Fiber; 80mg Cholesterol; 411mg Sodium.

. . .

Mayo Caesar Dressing

Recipe By: Phillis Carey, instructor and cookbook author
Serving Size: 6

2 cloves garlic — peeled
1/2 cup mayonnaise — Best Foods or home made
1/4 cup Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese — grated
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon capers — drained (or use anchovies, if desired)
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1/2 teaspoon hot pepper sauce
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1. Turn blender motor on and removing lid slightly drop garlic cloves into bowl. Turn motor off.
2. Add all remaining ingredients and blend until mixture is smooth. (Ideally you might want to double the dressing quantities because this amount “throws” the dressing all over the workbowl.) Pour dressing into a container and refrigerate. It tastes best if used within a week, but will keep for several weeks under refrigeration.
Per Serving: 190 Calories; 21g Fat (94.6% calories from fat); 2g Protein; 1g Carbohydrate; trace Dietary Fiber; 9mg Cholesterol; 365mg Sodium.

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