Another recipe I decided to try, from my recent filing spree. And I learned something with this particular one from Gourmet. If a recipe comes from that source, there are some advantages:

Firstly, you can go to Epicurious to read or find the recipe. (For recipes that are older, most are now on Gourmet’s own website. Going back decades.)

And secondly, people who have tried the recipe upload comments and reviews of the recipes.

This latter – reading comments – would have been very important to this recipe, had I done that. I would have learned that others who had made these found them way too greasy, but a simple reduction of butter would have helped. I didn’t go to Epicurious, so, ended up with a cookie that is good, but just as many said, way, WAY too greasy. If you want to read the comments, click here.

Almonds are good, in my book. Almond paste adds a wonderful richness – and tenderness actually – to baked goods. When whipping up the batter/dough for this, it had a wonderful lightness to it, yet the cookies are solid with almond flavor. It wasn’t hard to make. Just wished I had thought through the chemistry of 1 1/4 cups of flour and 2 whole cubes of butter. Too much, for only 25-30 pieces. The cookies are delicious, but a little bit goes a long way. I probably will try these again, heeding the advice of others. You line the 8×8 or 9×9 pan with foil, BUTTER the foil (I question why that last step), then prepare the dough and spread it with an offset spatula in the readied pan, then brush with egg white so the sliced almonds will stick to the top. Bake. Easy.
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Even though I live in a city, close by there aren’t any independent fish markets. Our grocery stores carry fresh fish, but I don’t like it much. The flesh is soft. Makes me think the fish has been treated somehow. And I never think the fish is truly fresh. The cardinal rule is that if fish smells fishy, it probably isn’t fresh. Even though I know they aren’t supposed to. I’m leery of a lot of shrimp I see, because of the horror tv programs I’ve watched about the dirty, filthy pens they’re raised in, mostly along Asian coasts, and how vegetation won’t even grow near these pens because the water has been so destroyed from the detritus from the shrimp. Shrimp is the number one desired fish among Asian consumers, apparently. Shrimp caught in our waters aren’t all that great, either, with moderate levels of mercury.

Our closest independent fish market (that presumably carries fish and shellfish from reputable sources and not the endangered species – although they did have Chilean Sea Bass, which I didn’t buy) is about 10 miles away, and it’s down a busy freeway that clogs with traffic unless you return before about 11:00 am. So I don’t go there very often. But yesterday I had to drive about 13 miles that direction to buy the very best Italian sausage and stopped at this fish market on the way back.

Freezing fresh fish isn’t what I like to do, either, so I buy only what we can eat immediately. I bought about a pound of “chowder chunks” (halibut, swordfish, cod, tilapia) and some rock shrimp. I told the fish monger I didn’t want any salmon or tuna in the mixture, which he was kind enough to do. For me, the addition of tuna and salmon overpowers a fish stew. Also bought some ready-made ceviche that we enjoyed with lunch, along with about 5 ounces of fresh Dungeness crabmeat which went on a lovely green salad.

I used a couple of recipes to concoct this fish stew/chowder. It took about 35 minutes to put together, start to finish. First I sauteed a bit of pancetta in olive oil (you could use bacon and next time I will), then added a large onion, chopped, two small leeks, chopped, about 2 cups of chopped celery, also some fresh spring garlic (look like green onions, but they’re young garlic and you could just add one clove of regular garlic, minced) a bit of jalapeno, and some mushrooms. Then I added some seafood stock (mine came from Penzey’s, and it’s a concentrate you mix with water) but you could use clam juice instead, or even chicken broth. A can of light coconut milk, some red bell pepper minced, and 4 stalks of lemon grass, cut in half lengthwise. That stewed for a bit, then I removed the lemon grass, added a bit of thyme, and about a cup of fat-free half and half (or use the real thing) and a big splash of heavy cream. Once that came to a simmer I added all the chowder chunks (cut into smaller bite-sized pieces) and the shrimp (snipped into smaller pieces) and allowed it to just rumble even below a simmer for 3-4 minutes. Done. I was all out of cilantro, otherwise I would have sprinkled some on top. This recipe makes a thin broth, yet creamy. And the fish chunks were lovely. It was an easy dinner, served with a couple of slices of fresh sourdough bread. The best part is that I have enough for another dinner as leftovers. I’ll reheat it very gently so the fish doesn’t break apart. This wasn’t a “wow,” over the top kind of dish, but it was warm and tasty for a cold winter’s night.
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Probably 30 years ago I saved a recipe for Bobotie, after reading it in some magazine. It sounded so unusual – a ground meat dish (a casserole, actually, like a meatloaf) with some raisins and almonds, plus some curry powder, then topped with a kind of eggy custard. I’d never made it. Until the other night. I’ve had it served to me – some friends of ours are from South Africa – and they entertained us one night and served their version. This has been a couple of years ago, but I believe it was served with rice, chutney and some other condiments. I really enjoyed it. This version resembles a recipe I found in Gourmet, but I made several changes based on the other recipes I had to refer to.I knew it was an African-historied dish, but here’s more, from Wikipedia:
Bobotie is a South African dish consisting of spiced minced meat baked with an egg-based topping. The recipe probably originates from the Dutch East India Company colonies in Batavia, with the name derived from the Indonesian Bobotok. It is also made with curry powder leaving it with a slight “tang”.

It is a dish of some antiquity: it has certainly been known in the Cape of Good Hope since the 17th century, when it was made with a mixture of mutton and pork. Today it is much more likely to be made with beef or lamb, although pork lends the dish extra moistness. Early recipes incorporated ginger, marjoram and lemon rind; the introduction of curry powder has simplified the recipe somewhat but the basic concept remains the same. Some recipes also call for chopped onions to be added to the mixture. Traditionally, bobotie incorporates dried fruit like raisins or sultanas, but the sweetness that they lend is not to everybody’s taste. It is often garnished with walnuts, chutney and bananas.

Cook’s Notes: If you enjoy curry, you might want to add more. Be sure to serve this with rice (it’s customary) and some condiments, preferably some chutney. The apple isn’t always included – your choice. Make certain the onion and apple are minced up finely so the meatloaf will be cohesive. The lemon leaves are not a requirement, but they must be traditional in South Africa. I didn’t have any bananas, but they appear in several recipes for Bobotie.
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You know, orzo is a rice-shaped pasta. Once it plumps up, it grows a bit in size, but still looks like large, very large, grains of rice. And carbonara is a rich, cream-laden Italian preparation of pasta with bacon as the primary flavor. Yet, risotto is a creamy rice preparation too, that can vary with the additions. So, Phillis Carey combined all of these culinary variations and created a great risotto-like pasta side dish. Since I like bacon a whole heck of a lot, and thyme is my most favorite-est herb, this satisfies like comfort food.

The preparation is fairly simple, although you do have to heat up the broth and be near the range when you’re making this. But you don’t have to stir for 30-45 minutes like you do with risotto. It comes together in about 30 minutes.

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Kind of like lava. Thick gooey deliciousness. There’s nothing in this not to like – chocolate, white chocolate, raspberries, and whipped cream. This would make a perfect ending to a Valentine’s Day dinner.

If you happen to want to make something very chocolatety and very rich, this is your ticket to nirvana. I was surprised that it didn’t keep me awake the other night with the caffeine, although it’s only got 8 ounces of chocolate (dark stuff) in the whole torte, so that must be why.

Credit goes to Phillis Carey, from a cooking class I took. Over the years of taking classes from her, she’s made some really wonderful desserts, and some really good chocolate ones at that. So here’s another to add to the stable of chocolate yumminess.

Really, this is a fairly simple dessert to make. You do have to prepare the pan (springform) and line it with parchment. And you’ll mess up a few bowls getting all the different batters made, but all combine into one in the end, and you pour it into the springform and bake. It’s served with the frozen raspberries in syrup (from the grocery store), thawed, of course, and a nice mound of whipped cream.

Knowing when the torte is DONE is a bit tricky here. This one pictured, is probably a tad under-done – the center of it was too lava like. But it worked and tasted just fine. At about the 35 minute mark, you insert a pick into the center, and you do not want all sticky stuff. In fact, when this one was removed, there was just a tiny, tiny bit of goo, and just a few crumbs attached to the pick. And yet, it was still a bit underdone. Keep testing the torte every 3-4 minutes thereafter until it’s done to your liking.

Cook’s Notes: Phillis told us to buy white chocolate chips from Trader Joe’s because they do contain cocoa butter. Most white chocolate does not. Those other brands will work, but the cocoa butter ones are better. She also cautioned us to NOT chunk up a white chocolate bar for this because it will just melt into the batter and you won’t SEE the white chocolate at all (you can see the chips in the photo). That’s not what you want here. White chocolate chips contain something (is it wax?) to keep them from melting, like regular chocolate chips. And lastly, do not eliminate the whipped cream because this dessert is really, really rich, and you need the cream to cut down that solid richness. Also, Phillis’ recipe contained 2 full cups of sugar. I thought it was too, too sweet, so reduced the sugar by 1/4 cup in both instances (you add the sugar to two different batters as it’s made). You can use your own judgment.
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It was some years ago now that we first had lunch at The Gypsy Den, in Costa Mesa (California). It happens to be in the same small shopping complex where we, my DH and I, get our hair cut, so we often try to make appointments around lunchtime. Sometimes my friend and owner/hair stylist Rachel, eat there together before or after the haircuts. But most often my DH and I eat there. He orders the same thing every single time we go. Mostly I do too. He has their Greek salad. I order a crock of their adobe stew.

So after eating this soup umpteen times, I asked one of the waitresses about it. She brought out a sheet of paper with a list of all the ingredients. It was up to me to figure out how much of what. That’s all I had – a list of all the vegetables in it, and the names of the spices. I was amazed at how good it was, considering it was made with WATER. Not even broth. Not even vegetable broth. So their recipe is actually vegan and vegetarian if you don’t count the cheese. I love it just as well, no matter what you call it.
The restaurant fashions itself as a kind of hip, but very funky, mostly outdoor place. The OC Weekly described it this way: “nose-pierced babes woo scruffy-bearded grad students with promises of Foucault and vegetarian chili.”

The Gypsy Den kitchen makes everything themselves, including their bread. They have lots of vegetarian items, but also make some sandwiches and salads with chicken and tuna, etc. The food is always – I mean always – good. I appreciate the fact that they make everything in house. The waitresses are a trip and a half – often with tattoos down their arms, in rather skimpy halter tops, tight pants, etc. You might not want to take your aging mother here, although I am one. But it’s a favorite haunt of ours nevertheless.

So one time I decided to try making my own Adobe Stew. I came up with a kind of recipe. It’s not the same as the Gypsy Den’s, I’m sure, but it’s close. Each time I’ve made it, it’s been slightly different. Do notice how dark the broth is – so I assume they used a LOT of chiles. Cumin also adds to a dark-colored broth, but not THAT dark.

You can also buy ancho chili powder from some grocery stores, and also at Penzey’s – and in fact that may be what they use rather than the dried chiles. Here in Southern California we have all kinds of fresh and dried chiles at our markets. Poblanos (a fresh chile) are at most stores, and anchos are dried poblanos. They’re very mild, adding just about zero heat to the stew. Likely the chili powder does that.

So, first I’ll give you the ingredient list – that way you can interpret it as you so choose. If you choose.

Gypsy Den Adobe Stew Ingredients: onions, oil, tomatoes (canned), garlic, bay leaves, oregano, ground cumin, ground coriander, chili powder, ancho chiles, corn, green beans, zucchini squash, yellow squash, pinto beans, water, cheddar cheese and jack cheese.

My scribblings on the day the waitress brought us the ingredient list.
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You can’t see the toasted couscous on the bottom, but it’s there, topped with watercress, then lightly breaded shrimp, and drizzled with a delicious orange mayo sauce.

Another recipe from the “stack” I sorted through the other day. And this one is an absolute over-the-top winner.

Ordinarily I might have passed by this recipe. We don’t eat couscous, generally, because it’s a high glycemic carb. Couscous is actually little tiny orbs of pasta, and takes no more than adding water (hot) to it and it’s cooked and ready. But, this recipe won a cooking contest at Cooking Light in 2006. (I know, I told you, I’ve been behind in filing my recipes :-), and the rest of the recipe sounded so delish that I held onto it. DH and I went to a local farmer’s market and had bought some fresh shrimp with no plan as to what I’d make with it.

Here’s the crux of the recipe: you make a mayonnaise-based cold sauce with reduced orange juice, lime juice, cilantro, ginger and cumin. Then you toast the dry couscous in a large pan. THAT I’d never done before, but it added a wonderful taste to the simple prep of couscous. You add chicken broth and orange juice to plump up the couscous, then green onions and almonds at the last. The shrimp: rolled in egg white, then tossed around in a plastic bag with panko, cilantro, fresh ginger and some pepper. You quickly saute the shrimp, then start the artful arrangement: couscous on the bottom, a nice mound of fresh watercress, the hot shrimp, then you drizzle the whole thing with the sauce.

First photo, the couscous toasting golden brown in the pan.

The mayo sauce (small amount, really) based orange ginger sauce that’s drizzled over the top and becomes a kind of salad dressing.
Lastly, the crunchy shrimp moments before serving. They’re crusted with panko, cilantro, fresh ginger and ground black pepper.

The history of the recipe: Cooking Light – the Ultimate Reader Recipe Contest, 2006. There were several categories, but the judges were all, hands down, in love with this dish, which won first prize. The cook: Karen Tedesco of Webster Groves, Maryland.

Notes: I think next time I’d make a little more of the sauce – it was barely enough (because it’s so darned good). Watch the couscous when you’re toasting – it goes from normal to toasted in a matter of about 30-40 seconds. I’d chop up the watercress just a little bit. I’m kind of haphazard when I wrench off most of the stems, but even medium stems are hard to eat. This is a one-dish meal – you need nothing else with it. No salad. No side. It takes about 30-40 minutes from start to finish. Would make a lovely company meal.
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Sometimes there’s just no other vegetable (carb) except peas that will work. I really enjoy green peas, especially the young, small ones. But because they’re a carb, we don’t eat them much anymore except adding them onto a salad at a salad bar. This dish, though, makes me a convert every time I’ve prepared it. Probably it’s the pancetta. I’m sure glad I was introduced to pancetta some years ago (it’s Italian bacon, but not smoked as American bacon is). Trader Joe’s carries it in paper-thin slices and in cube form. I keep one of those boxes of pancetta cubes in the freezer all the time now, and it’s perfect for this dish.

The recipe came from Cooking Light, April 2005. So that means it’s low in fat and calories. But this recipe is high on flavor, I’ll tell you.
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I’m on a roll. Trying some of the recipes amongst the hundreds of clippings I sorted through a few days ago. This one was only about 7 months old – after I broke my foot last summer I watched a heck of a lot of television, and this was one of Giada’s Italian recipes that sounded so good, and I knew I’d enjoy it. It’s easy to make, too. Can’t beat that combination. I really can’t say that I make all that many recipes from Food Network shows. I enjoy watching some of them (as theater, I suppose) but only occasionally do I go to the Network’s site and print out a recipe.

Here is Giada De Laurentis’ stuffed jumbo shells, placed in a baking dish. Photo from the Food Network.

I almost always have pancetta on hand, but I didn’t have the 3/4 inch cubes Giada mentions in the recipe – I had the tiny cubed pancetta that I get from Trader Joe’s in 4-ounce packages. DH offered to go grocery shopping for me, so I wrote down “large pasta shells.” I should have known that “jumbo” was what I wanted. Soooo, I had to improvise a bit. The large shells are way too small to stuff, so I just made a casserole of them instead. Am sure they tasted the same, but most definitely didn’t look as attractive as Giada’s. The Asiago cheese is part of what “makes” this dish, since it has a kind of sharp taste. Good, though. And the dash of nutmeg in the mixture was really delish. The dish is rich, so it’s filling. Maybe a bit too rich for me. DH liked this a LOT. Said I could make this anytime. Any day. Night. Whenever.
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Some years ago we were at the home of friends, and many others had been invited to participate in a Russian dinner. Each couple brought something. I made a pie, I think. With a crust that should never be repeated. I’d followed a recipe that was supposed to be a Russian type, made with an egg yolk. Well, anyway, we’ll gloss over that disaster. One of the other couples brought a very authentic borscht. It was what she called a winter borscht, made with beef. It was deliciously deep in flavor, but she wouldn’t share the recipe, was almost offended that I’d ask, as it was a family one. I’ve never forgotten that borscht, and have pined away, wishing I knew how hers was made. So, ever since, I’ve collected borscht recipes, thinking I’d make it sometime.

Wikipedia has a very comprehensive page of information about borscht. About its origin (Russian, Ukrainian, Lithuanian, even Polish), and its two major variations (hot-winter, and cold-summer). The common thread is beets (except for one summer version using sorrel), but what a bunch of variations it suggests. Makes my mind reel even thinking of all the combinations. About as varied as curry powders are to the East Indians, or a green salad to anyone in the world. It’s all in the interpretation, and what is in your larder.

Set before me I had four recipes, all slightly different. Naturally, the common thread was beets. Yet they all included onions, tomatoes, tomato paste, and cabbage. Two had beef in it. Another was vegetarian. And one had andouille sausage (also likely not authentic).

Sidestep with me a bit. We have friends, Mike & Norma. Mike does most of the cooking in their house, and as a Louisiana boy, he loves his rice, red beans. And Andouille (pronounced ahn-doo-wee) sausage. A year ago Mike made a dinner of red beans, rice and sausage for us, which was fabulous. And he kindly bequested to me a package of Andouille. I tucked it into the freezer until I was ready to make something with it. It’s been a year, for goodness’ sake. But Sunday was the day to use it.

I took what I thought was the best of all four recipes and made it my own. Even adding one little thing that probably isn’t true to the genre of borscht, that being thyme.

I baked the beets in the oven (easier to get the skins off), sauteed the vegetables, added almost all the ingrients and simmered for a couple of hours. At the very end you add the Andouille. I’m sure I’ve mentioned before, if you simmer a sausage (a delicious, flavorful sausage of any kind) in a soup, it gives up all of its flavor to the soup, so when you chow down and expect that Kielbasa or Hungarian sausage to have some flavor, you’ll find that it’s absolutely blah. Nothing but soft texture with no flavor whatsoever. Test the soup for seasonings – mine needed just a tad more sugar (note there is 2/3 of a cup of red wine vinegar in it). So, the Andouille, a treasure for sure unless you happen to live anywhere near New Orleans, needs to be added in at the very end, so it still has that spark of heat and chewiness. The resulting chunky soup is just the richest red/orange color, and when serving garnish the soup with a moderate dollop of sour cream.

So, interpret away. Make borscht yours too, with additions of your own. And, THANKS MIKE, for the Andouille. I took two quarts of borscht to them on Sunday afternoon – that was Mike’s request – whatever I made with the gifted Andouille, I needed to share it with him. Gladly!
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