Just plain and simple fish soup – no cream – nothing all that unusual, just lots of flavorful spices, tomatoes and some delicious broth – altogether good.
I had a number of filet of sole, individually frozen, in the freezer. And a nice piece of halibut. Plus a package of Trader Joe’s mixed shellfish. A marriage was made in this soup. My photo shows the title as Freshwater Fish Soup – well, I didn’t have the catfish and trout suggested in the recipe, so duh – it’s not really a freshwater fish soup at all. Forgive my mistake.
What I did have on my pantry shelf is, however, a can of Muir Glen tomatoes. I don’t know about you, but I always keep numerous cans of different tomato products on my pantry shelves – whole tomatoes, diced organic tomatoes as you can see in the photo, the fire-roasted tomatoes that are dear to my culinary heart, tomato sauce, tomato paste and even some sun-dried tomatoes too. So this time, I grabbed the diced tomatoes and added them to this simple soup – no cutting and chopping required. And nearly all of them are Muir Glen. Most grocery stores carry one or two types of their tomatoes, rarely do you find one that carries them all, so each different store I visit, I’ll pass by that section just to see.
Recently Muir Glen offered to send me their 2011 reserve selection – a lovely 4-pack of tomatoes, including two of their premium cans of “reserve” tomatoes. Those are only available by mail order, to the best of my knowledge. I certainly don’t hide my preference for Muir Glen tomatoes, and have mentioned them numerous times in the past with recipes.
Anyway, back to soup . . . using the website Eat Your Books, I found a recipe in an old cookbook I have – Crescent Dragonwagon’s book The Dairy Hollow House Soup & Bread: A Country Inn Cookbook. The Inn (in Eureka Springs, Arkansas, Ozark country) isn’t open any longer, I discovered. We have friends who once stayed there; otherwise I’d have never discovered any of the numerous cookbooks by the author. Anyway, I own just this one book and have made soup from it numerous times (none of them since I’ve been blogging, I don’t think).
What I’ve always liked about the recipes is that they’re full of flavor. That’s my idea of a good cookbook. This recipe isn’t a difficult one – it’s really fairly straight forward. Don’t be intimidated by the long list of ingredients – it’s not all that difficult – or time consuming – to make this. I have in my frig a small container of fish soup base, that wonderful stuff made by Penzey’s. The recipe called for chicken stock, but why use that when you’ve got fish stock? The finished soup is very flavorful – it’s mostly fish, tomatoes, the soupy stock and a bit of rice. Not a lot of other vegetables, really. I added the baguette slices (they’re not in the recipe). Suit yourself – but we enjoyed that as a texture addition. The recipe has two components – the soup – and the fish. And really a third – the rice. The author fixes a pet peeve of mine – when you make fish soup, all the fish falls apart as you’re making it. Dragonwagon has you prepare the fish separately (and you use all the good broth from it in the soup so nothing’s wasted). And the rice – and not very much rice, which I liked. Only in the bowl do you co-mingle everything. A great idea, I thought. It’s a trick she developed when she ran her restaurant – people don’t like to eat fish soup with tiny flakes of fish – they want pieces. Her method works like a charm.
What I liked: this was clearly a fish soup – no waffling – there’s lots of fish in it. Good flavor; good broth. No cream. No thickening agent. Just the straight stuff. The different components are combined in the soup bowl – as long as the soup stock part is nearly boiling, you can pour it over the fish and rice and it all warms up to the right eating temperature.
What I didn’t like: nothing at all. Not very suitable for freezing, though. The fish would disintegrate, I think, in the process. So, make and eat.
MasterCook 5+ import file – right click to save file, run MC, then File|Import
Fish Soup Provençal
Recipe By: Dairy Hollow House Soup and Bread, by Crescent Dragonwagon
Serving Size: 6
Serving Ideas: Serve with toasted bread – either on the side, or put it on top of the fish soup when served.
NOTES: I used filet of sole, halibut and a package of frozen mixed shellfish (shrimp, scallops, calamari) for the bass, catfish or trout suggested.
4 cups fish stock — or chicken stock or bottled clam juice
1 1/2 cups dry white wine
juice of 1 lemon
3 whole cloves
3 whole black peppercorns
3 whole allspice berries
1 whole bay leaf
1 teaspoon fennel seeds
skin of 1 large onion
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1/4 teaspoon dried dill
2 1/2 pounds fish — bass, catfish or trout, cleaned and cut into pieces
Tomato sauce:
1/4 cup olive oil
1 large onion — finely chopped
2 medium carrots — scrubbed and finely chopped
2 ribs celery — chopped
1 large shallot — peeled, chopped [my addition]
2 cups canned tomatoes — drained and coarsely chopped [I used the juice]
grated zest of 1/4 orange
3 cloves garlic — peeled
4 large fresh basil leaves — (4 to 5)
tiny pinch of cayenne pepper
1 teaspoon honey — or sugar
1 tablespoon tomato paste
1 cup dry white wine
salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
For serving:
2 1/2 cups cooked rice
finely chopped fresh Italian parsley and/or fresh basil leaves for garnish
1. In large skillet, combine all the ingredients in the first list except the fish and bring to a boil. Add the fish, turn the heat down to low, and barely simmer, covered. Poach the fish until it is firm and done, 6-8 minutes unless the fish pieces are thicker than 3/4 to 1 inch (in which case cooking will take a little longer).
2. Pour stock and fish into a colander set over a bowl; reserve both stock and fish. Discard the whole spices and the onion skin. When the fish is cool enough to handle, skin the pieces and pull out the bones; reserve the flesh.
3. Prepare the tomato sauce: In a large skillet, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the onion and saute until lightly softened, about 3 minutes. Add the carrots and celery and saute another 3 minutes. Put the tomatoes, orange zest, garlic, basil, cayenne, honey, and tomato paste in a food processor and process until the leaves are fairly chopped and the tomatoes are a chunky puree. Add this mixture, plus the wine, to the sauteed vegetables. Cook, stirring often, over medium-high heat for 10 minutes.
4. 15 to 20 minutes before serving, combine the broth and tomato sauce and simmer gently for 5-10 minutes. Taste; correct the seasoning with salt and pepper. Meanwhile have your soup bowls or cups ready, heated, if possible. In each bowl place a serving of the rice, and a generous amount of the poached fish pieces. Ladle the piping hot soup over the rice and fish (if the soup is hot enough, you won’t have to worry about reheating the rice or fish). Garnish with the chopped parsley or basil and serve at once.
Per Serving: 378 Calories; 14g Fat (42.4% calories from fat); 5g Protein; 39g Carbohydrate; 5g Dietary Fiber; 11mg Cholesterol; 514mg Sodium.

Toffeeapple
said on January 28th, 2012:
Reminds me of eating Bouillabaisse in France. That is an entirely different method though and takes hours. The fish recipes of most of the ports in France have varying ingredients and methods. One of my favourites is in Boulogne. Must go back to France soon I think.