If you’d told me any time in the past that I’d be raving about a gelato made with olive oil, I’d have thought you were crazy. Olive oil and gelato or ice cream just don’t seem to have any affinity for one another. But I was wrong. Dead wrong! This gelato is smooth and heavenly. And I’d have wondered about the prudency of using very expensive olive oil also. Trust me here . . .
Likely I wouldn’t have even made this gelato having seen the recipe – just because I thought it didn’t sound all that appealing. But, because Nancy Silverton devised the recipe for Dario’s Olive Oil Cake that you read about a couple of weeks ago (that I’ve now made twice and I’m very carefully hoarding the few pieces that are left), she offered up the recipe for this gelato that she serves with the cake in one or more of her restaurants. That was a good enough endorsement for me to serve it. The recipe appeared in the Los Angeles Times.
We were going to a dinner party. We have this 4-couple gourmet group that meets every few months, and Peggy & Gary decided to do something way different – we had a vegetarian meal. And oh, was it ever fabulous. Their coffee/espresso bar and café near downtown Orange, called Mead’s Green Door Café, is on the corner of Chapman and Parker, in case any of you are local readers. It’s the cutest little place – kind of eclectic and homey. They close early on Sundays, so Peggy & Gary hosted our group at the café at 5:00 pm. They’d set up a lovely long table and a kind of a serving/buffet table along another space. Bottles of wine were set out, glasses poured, an appetizer enjoyed, a short tour ensued for those who hadn’t been to the café before, including Peggy’s baking realm in the back. Three of the 4 women are bakers, and we all swooned a little over the TWO Hobarts (Hobart makes an industrial kitchen sized mixer) in the back kitchen, and the 8-foot x 4 foot long work tables in the center.
I’m going to share some of the recipes from the dinner – including 2 fantastic salads that I can’t wait to make myself (from Sunset Magazine) and Peggy will, she said, share the lentil loaf with balsamic barbecue sauce that was so good, I can’t wait to try also. But today I’m telling you about the olive oil gelato.
The ingredients aren’t all that different – EXCEPT for the olive oil. And how it’s added is also very different. First you make the 6 egg yolk custard with milk, sugar, cornstarch, sugar and some powdered milk. Oh, and a bit of corn syrup and salt. It’s put through a sieve and chilled thoroughly (at least a few hours, but overnight worked for me). Then just before you pour this into the ice cream maker, you slowly pour in and mix gently the cup of heavy cream and the 3/4 cup of very good quality extra virgin olive oil. FYI: I used Trader Joe’s new Reserve EVOO. It mixed in beautifully – no streaks or separation. I poured it into the machine and it became gelato in about 40 minutes. I scooped it all into a freezer container and allowed it to completely freeze overnight.
What’s GOOD: Oh my, yes, this stuff is fabulous. I just can’t quite describe the texture – ever-so smooth and unctuous, is about all I can say. There was no vanilla in it. No flavorings of any kind. So it’s the olive oil that shines through, I guess, but it’s not like you can taste the olive oil. You can’t, really. It has a lovely yellow color with just a tinge of green from the EVOO. But not really green. Don’t for a second think this gelato/ice cream comes out green. It’s just that colors are made up of parts of lots of colors, so you can have yellow with a tinge of green. If I’d put the gelato in a green cup you might have been able to see more of the green. I’ll definitely be making this one again!
What’s NOT: I can’t think of anything we didn’t like about it – everyone raved about it when they tasted it. It did need to sit out on the counter for awhile to be soft enough to scoop, but once we did, it scooped nicely (which isn’t always the case with home made ice cream).
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Olive Oil Gelato
Recipe By: Nancy Silverton, from Mozza cookbook
Serving Size: 8
6 extra large egg yolks
1/4 cup cornstarch
3 cups whole milk
3/4 cup sugar — plus 2 tablespoons
1/4 cup nonfat dry milk powder
2 tablespoons light corn syrup
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1 cup heavy whipping cream
3/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil — finishing-quality
1. Fill a large bowl with ice water and set a smaller bowl inside. Set a fine-mesh strainer in the smaller bowl. In a medium bowl, whisk together the egg yolks and cornstarch.
2. Combine the milk, sugar, milk powder, corn syrup and salt in a 4-quart saucepan and whisk to break up and dissolve the milk powder. Heat the milk mixture over high heat until it begins to bubble, then immediately remove from the heat.
3. Slowly add one-half cup of the hot milk mixture to the bowl with the eggs, whisking constantly. Continue to whisk in half of the milk, one-half cup at a time, enough to warm the eggs slightly.
4. Pour the egg and milk mixture into the pot with the milk, return the pot to medium-low heat and cook, stirring constantly with the whisk or a wooden spoon, until the gelato base thickens enough to coat the back of a spoon.
5. Pour the gelato base through the strainer into the bowl set over ice water and set aside to cool to room temperature. Transfer the base to an airtight container and refrigerate for at least several hours and up to three days.
6. Remove the ice cream mixture from the refrigerator, pour it into a bowl and stir in the cream and olive oil. Pour the mixture into the bowl of an ice cream or gelato maker, and spin it according to the machine instructions. Serve the gelato straight from the maker or transfer it to an airtight container and place it in the freezer until you’re ready to serve it. Serve the gelato within a few hours of spinning it, before it hardens. [If made ahead, just allow the container to sit out at room temperature for about 8-10 minutes and the gelato will be soft enough to scoop.]
Per Serving: 492 Calories; 38g Fat (68.7% calories from fat); 6g Protein; 33g Carbohydrate; trace Dietary Fiber; 213mg Cholesterol; 197mg Sodium.

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