Oh, was this ever delicious. It was last week sometime when a group of us were talking about old-time recipes that nobody makes anymore, and my friend Peggy (I think) mentioned that spice cake is one of those things that’s gone by the wayside. That got me to thinking about it. My mother used to make a great spice cake (not a mix, although Duncan Hines and Pillsbury did used to produce a box mix), but after looking, I couldn’t find one in her recipe box. Found three recipes, though, amongst my cookbooks and to-try recipes. The one with the browned butter frosting stood out.
I made the cake, and our daughter Sara, who came to visit with her family over the weekend, made the frosting. Neither was difficult, but the spice mixture is certainly different. The recipe came from Sunset Magazine in October. Its title is “French Four Spice Cake with Browned Butter Spice Frosting.” That seemed like an unwieldy name, so I shortened it up some. But the recipe is just as it was printed in the magazine and online.
In France, they have a spice called quatre épices. It’s a mixture of spices, including white pepper. Maybe in France you can buy this already packaged (like we would buy pumpkin pie spice). It’s not hard to make – as long as you have white peppercorns on hand, you’ll likely have the other spices (cinnamon, ginger, cloves, nutmeg). Although it’s called four spice, it’s actually five. I made a small batch in my electric spice grinder. Just remember that once spices are mixed together, they don’t hold their flavors as long – use the mixture within a month. Also, grind it up well – you don’t want little chunks of white pepper in your cake. You use some of it in the cake and some in the frosting as well.
The cake fills a 9×9 pan, but actually, we got many more than 12 servings out of it – if you served it with some vanilla ice cream on the side, I think it would easily serve 16. Whatever the serving sizes, it’s really good. Comfort food. And the frosting – oh my goodness – it’s rich, but good enough that you could easily lick the beater clean as a whistle! Don’t be tempted to make more frosting (to frost the sides, for instance). You don’t need more. The cake is tender and tasty, but the frosting puts it onto another plane!
French Four-spice Cake with Browned Butter Spice Frosting
Recipe By: Sunset Magazine, 10/2010
Serving Size: 12
NOTES: Quatre Epices: grind in a spice blender, coffee mill or mortar and pestle: 1 tablespoons white peppercorns, 1/8 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg, 1/4 teaspoon (about 6) whole cloves, 1/8 teaspoon ground cinnamon and 1/8 teaspoon ground ginger. Store leftovers in airtight jar and use within a month. If you cut smaller pieces, this would easily serve 16.
CAKE
1/2 cup unsalted butter — softened
1 cup packed brown sugar
Zest of ½ orange
2 large eggs
3 2/3 cups flour
2 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa
2 teaspoons quatre épices
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup buttermilk
FROSTING
2/3 cup unsalted butter
1/4 cup honey
1 teaspoon quatre épices
2 tablespoons half and half
1 1/2 tablespoons lemon juice — [or orange juice]
3 cups powdered sugar
2/3 cup walnuts — chopped, toasted
1. Preheat oven to 350°. Butter and flour a 9-in. square pan.
2. Make cake: Beat butter, brown sugar, and zest in a large bowl with a mixer until fluffy. Add eggs and beat until well blended. In another bowl, combine flour and other dry ingredients. Add flour mixture to butter mixture one-third at a time, alternating with buttermilk half at a time, and beating on low speed after each addition until blended. Spread batter in pan.
3. Bake until a toothpick inserted in center comes out clean, 25 to 30 minutes. Let cool on a rack, 10 minutes. Loosen cake from pan with a slender spatula, then invert onto a rack. Re-invert onto another rack; cool completely.
4. Make frosting: Cook butter in a medium saucepan over medium-low heat, swirling pan occasionally, until deep golden brown, 10 to 15 minutes. Pour into a mixer bowl, let cool, then chill until firm enough to beat, about 30 minutes. Add remaining ingredients except for nuts and beat until fluffy, 1 to 2 minutes, occasionally scraping inside of bowl.
5. Split cake horizontally with a long serrated knife. Lift off top layer with 2 wide spatulas. Set bottom layer on a platter, then spread with half of frosting. Replace top layer. Spread top of cake with remaining frosting, then sprinkle with nuts.
Per Serving: 570 Calories; 24g Fat (36.4% calories from fat); 8g Protein; 85g Carbohydrate; 2g Dietary Fiber; 85mg Cholesterol; 217mg Sodium.
A year ago: Saffron Risotto Cakes (oh, yum, love those things)
Two years ago: Rice Pudding
Three years ago: Cauliflower with Scallop Soup






steph (whisk/spoon)
said on December 9th, 2010:
wow–that looks delicious! i’m keeping this cake in mind.
It was gosh-darned delicious! Do try it. . . carolyn t
Elizabeth
said on December 9th, 2010:
Oh yum! Can’t wait to try this. How did you choose your mix of Quatre Epices? Seems there are many versions, some with cinnamon and cloves, some without.
Well, I read several and decided I didn’t want to leave any one of the spices out, so I used one I found online. I think I wrote the proportions at the top of the recipe. But you could use your own combo – am sure it doesn’t matter! Hope you enjoy it like we did. . . carolyn t