Closed:
The Pleasant Peasant, after many years, closed its doors just before Thanksgiving, 2009. A sad day for us.
A couple of weeks ago we organized a dinner out with a group of friends. A group that enjoys good food! And we’d all talked about the movie, Julie & Julia a couple of weeks earlier. At the time we were still living in summer heat, so none of us felt much like making the Beef Bourguignon. So, I called Laurent & Lisa Ferre, the owners of a country French restaurant, The Pleasant Peasant, near the Orange County airport. Our favorite restaurant, as it so happens. It’s a country French bistro, and the prices reflect that country influence. Your dinner bill will not break the bank.
The Pleasant Peasant has been a part of my hubby’s regular routine for about 30 years. Back to when the restaurant first opened. As Dave explains it, as a salesman (he sold computer chips for Intel Corp. for a good part of his career – and he wouldn’t say it, but I will, he was very good at it) he always needed a good restaurant where he was “known.” The kind of eatery where, if he called at 10 on Friday mornings, he could always be assured they’d make a table available for him for lunch. Even if they were full. And, having a discriminating palate, he wasn’t about to make Mimi’s, or Marie Calender’s his go-to restaurant. Heck no. He had an expense account, so usually he could manage going to a nicer, more upscale restaurant. (Can you guess, this was in the 80’s and 90’s.)
The way Dave tells it, if he wanted to take an electronics buyer or a design engineer to lunch, he’d call and leave a voice message, “Meet me for a chicken today?” That was code for – I’ll meet you at the Pleasant Peasant at 11:45 and we’ll share lunch and a half-liter of wine (served in a ceramic chicken). Now Dave is retired and we mostly go there for dinner, but they’re still open for lunch Monday-Friday.
So we knew when we asked Laurent if he’d prepare Beef Bourguignon for our group, he’d do a stellar job of it. Indeed he did. The French beef stew is not available on their menu, and Laurent shook his head vigorously when I suggested he put it there, especially at the moment because of the popularity of the movie. He says it’s too labor intensive. And perhaps it is, so we were especially happy he’d prepare it for our group. He used his own recipe (probably very similar to Julia Child’s) with carrots, mushrooms and pearl onions. And a roux (butter and flour browned in a heavy skillet, which is not part of Julia’s recipe). Laurent served the beef with just perfectly steamed potatoes, and we had a little bite of them with every bite of stew. Oh my, yum. Laurent makes his own beef stock, and probably the red wine contributed to its fabulous rich flavor. We all slurped up every bite.
Pictured above – the Meatloaf Wellington, one of my favorite things on the menu. For all dinners, you have a choice of their delicious green salad (with grated carrot and raw beet on top) served always with their French tarragon dressing. The dressing that occasionally I buy from them just because it’s so good. (No, sadly, I don’t have the recipe.) Or their soup of the day, gazpacho or French Onion soup. Good crusty rolls along with pate butter and plain butter are part of the regular menu. The soup or salad is included with every entree.
When Dave and I go there, we order a variety of their menu items – the fabulous Laurent-smoked salmon served with a green bean and salad side (at lunch) or a cold mixed vegetable salad (at dinner). Or one of their on-special fish (halibut, tilapia, sea bass usually) with a variety of French sauces. Or their sand dabs, which is one of the most popular items on their menu. Or the meatloaf Wellington. It’s like a beef Wellington, except Laurent makes a great meatloaf center – I don’t know what he does to that meatloaf but it’s not like any meatloaf I know how to make – it’s richer, less dense somehow – but prepared in the same manner as a fillet mignon version of the Wellington (wrapped in puff pastry). But I also like the chicken too.
The rack of lamb 
(Dave thinks their lamb racks are the best of any place around). And a lamb shank that’s so tender you can’t believe it. Salmon sorrel as well. A steak. Sometimes pork is on the menu in a variety of ways. And on rare occasions Laurent makes a pot roast that is better than any pot roast I’ve ever, ever made. If he has it, I always order that. There’s a smattering of pasta too on the menu, and several appetizers (including escargot). Pictured above right, the Rack of Lamb.
Pictured left, the Poulet Champignon, not on the menu, but if you ask, they might make it for you.
A few years ago the restaurant critic at the Los Angeles Times wrote this about The Pleasant Peasant:
“. . . you’ll still find the same honest French cooking Ferre has been doing here all along. Ferre spent five years in the kitchens of Alain Chapel, a three-star Michelin restaurant near Lyons, and many more cooking in his native Brittany. This man isn’t trendy or creative; he’s just a solid craftsman. And his menu is a bargain. No other French restaurant around here gives you such quality for the price as the Pleasant Peasant.”
If you’re interested in dessert, about half the time we splurge and order profiteroles. Now here’s another story – – sorry this post is so long, but there’s a lot to say about the Pleasant Peasant. We’ve been ordering the profiteroles there for years and years and years. You know what they are . . . small cream puffs, top cut off, center removed and filled with rich vanilla ice cream, top replaced, then the whole thing drizzled with Laurent’s uber-rich, silky chocolate sauce. All I know is that he adds a bit of espresso to it and that he uses a good French chocolate. After all these years of going there, that’s all I know. I always wish I could lick the plate. An order of profiteroles is usually four, but if you are very nice, they might give you a smaller order. They also have other desserts, but for us, there’s nothing else except the profiteroles.
Laurent is French born, from Brittany. He met Lisa when she was doing an internship (hotel & restaurant school at Cal Poly here in California) at a restaurant in Orleans. She brought him home with her when her internship was completed. They married shortly thereafter and have owned the Pleasant Peasant ever since. Laurent cooked under the tutelage of Alain Chapel, a very famous French chef, and that’s why Laurent is able to serve the Lamb Shanks with the Alain Chapel designation. The lamb is a regular on the menu. So, if you go there, be sure to tell them Carolyn & Dave said hello!
The Pleasant Peasant
4251 Martingale Way
Newport Beach, California
Reservations suggested, phone: 949-955-2755
Lunch: Monday-Friday; Dinner: Monday-Saturday (the restaurant is a little hard to find, so you might look it up on a map before you go)
And in case you hadn’t seen Julia Child’s recipe for her Beef Bourguignon, here it is:
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Julia Child’s Beef Bourguignon
Recipe: adapted from “Mastering the Art of French Cooking” by Julia Child
Servings: 6
Serving Ideas: According to Laurent at the Pleasant Peasant, this is supposed to be served with steamed whole potatoes (medium-sized red bliss, peeled), so you have a bit of potato with every bite of the beef stew.
6 ounces slab bacon — (lardons)
3 1/2 tablespoons olive oil
3 pounds beef stew meat — lean, cut into 2-inch cubes
1 carrot — sliced
1 onion — sliced
Salt and pepper
2 tablespoons flour
3 cups red wine — young and full-bodied (like Beaujolais, Cotes du Rhone or Burgundy)
2 1/2 cups beef stock — (2 1/2 to 3 1/2 cups)
1 tablespoon tomato paste
2 cloves garlic — mashed
1/2 teaspoon thyme
A crumbled bay leaf
18 small boiling onions — (18 to 24)
3 1/2 tablespoons butter Herb bouquet (4 parsley sprigs — one-half bay leaf, one-quarter teaspoon thyme, tied in cheesecloth)
1 pound mushrooms — fresh and quartered
1. Remove bacon rind and cut into lardons (sticks 1/4-inch thick and 1 1/2 inches long). Simmer rind and lardons for 10 minutes in 1 1/2 quarts water. Drain and dry.
2. Preheat oven to 450 degrees.
3. Sauté lardons in 1 tablespoon of the olive oil in a flameproof casserole over moderate heat for 2 to 3 minutes to brown lightly. Remove to a side dish with a slotted spoon.
4. Dry beef in paper towels; it will not brown if it is damp. Heat fat in casserole until almost smoking. Add beef, a few pieces at a time, and sauté until nicely browned on all sides. Add it to the lardons.
5. In the same fat, brown the sliced vegetables. Pour out the excess fat. Return the beef and bacon to the casserole and toss with 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon pepper. Then sprinkle on the flour and toss again to coat the beef lightly. Set casserole uncovered in middle position of preheated oven for 4 minutes.
6. Toss the meat again and return to oven for 4 minutes (this browns the flour and covers the meat with a light crust). Remove casserole and turn oven down to 325 degrees.
7. Stir in wine and 2 to 3 cups stock, just enough so that the meat is barely covered. Add the tomato paste, garlic, herbs and bacon rind. Bring to a simmer on top of the stove. Cover casserole and set in lower third of oven. Regulate heat so that liquid simmers very slowly for 3 to 4 hours. The meat is done when a fork pierces it easily.
8. While the beef is cooking, prepare the onions and mushrooms. Heat 1 1/2 tablespoons butter with one and one-half tablespoons of the oil until bubbling in a skillet. Add onions and sauté over moderate heat for about 10 minutes, rolling them so they will brown as evenly as possible. Be careful not to break their skins. You cannot expect them to brown uniformly. Add 1/2 cup of the stock, salt and pepper to taste and the herb bouquet. Cover and simmer slowly for 40 to 50 minutes until the onions are perfectly tender but hold their shape, and the liquid has evaporated. Remove herb bouquet and set onions aside.
9. Wipe out skillet and heat remaining oil and butter over high heat. As soon as you see butter has begun to subside, indicating it is hot enough, add mushrooms. Toss and shake pan for 4 to 5 minutes. As soon as they have begun to brown lightly, remove from heat. When the meat is tender, pour the contents of the casserole into a sieve set over a saucepan.
10. Wash out the casserole and return the beef and lardons to it. Distribute the cooked onions and mushrooms on top.
11. Skim fat off sauce in saucepan. Simmer sauce for a minute or 2, skimming off additional fat as it rises. You should have about 2 1/2 cups of sauce thick enough to coat a spoon lightly. If too thin, boil it down rapidly. If too thick, mix in a few tablespoons stock. Taste carefully for seasoning. Pour sauce over meat and vegetables. Cover and simmer 2 to 3 minutes, basting the meat and vegetables with the sauce several times.
12. Serve in casserole, or arrange stew on a platter surrounded with potatoes, noodles or rice, and decorated with parsley.
Per Serving: 938 Calories; 49g Fat (51.8% calories from fat); 63g Protein; 40g Carbohydrate; 8g Dietary Fiber; 167mg Cholesterol; 1655mg Sodium.
A year ago: Brown Sugar Cake
Two years ago: Leek, Kielbasa & Sausage Soup
farida
said on October 16th, 2009:
I have been meaning to make Beef Bourguignon after watching Julie and Julia too:) But never got my hands on it. Looks so good!
It IS really, really good. Worthy of a special dinner. . . carolyn t