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me_in_paris_198That’s me, on a trip, in a Paris restaurant.
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On my recent trip, I managed to get in a lot of reading on my Kindle. On airplanes, waiting for airplanes, waiting for the bus to load, waiting in lobbies for everybody to show up to leave, and at night when I couldn’t sleep. A fun book was Mr. Mac and Me, by Esther Freud. It takes place in England in 1914. In a time and place where a 13-year old boy has a lot of freedom. Although the war is looming, this little village is relatively quiet and safe, as life used to be. Boys will be boys, and he enjoys sort-of spying on people, especially people he doesn’t know well. He imagines that a man who arrives in town to rent a house with his paints and easels, might be a spy. Thus begins a story that starts from that premise, but eventually takes you into a very special friendship that develops between the man, Mr. Mac, his wife, and this boy. The story is absolutely charming. War brings some brutal truths for everyone in the village, yet this friendship flourishes. Great book.

Occasionally I’ll latch onto a book about food or restaurants. This one, The Lost Recipe for Happiness by Barbara O’Neal, is a romance (not a sticky sweet one) about a youngish woman (and her dog) who take a big leap to Colorado when she’s offered a job as a chef. The restaurant is fraught with some issues, but the author weaves in a romance, her skills as a leader in the kitchen, throws in some recipes (that I have yet to extract from my Kindle pages, that I want to try) along with it, and you have a book that held my interest all the way through. Formulaic, I suppose, but it’s a cute story. Books about restaurants always divulge some new tangle of how a kitchen runs. I enjoyed the read.

If you haven’t already read it, you are missing a really good and insightful book, Killing the Rising Sun: How America Vanquished World War II Japan by Bill O’Reilly. I was riveted from page one, all the way through to the end. O’Reilly has a very engaging way of re-telling history and making it ever-so readable and interesting. He weaves people’s stories, ones  you likely haven’t read or heard, into his narrative, to give you such a sense of place. You can just feel how these soldiers, pilots, prisoners and seamen made their mark, but likely all unsung heroes. It’s a must-read, it really is.

Having read some of Kent Haruf’s other books, I read Our Souls at Night. A lonely widow decides to invite a neighbor man, also a lonely widower, if he’d like to come to her home, at night, to spend the night. I simply can’t tell you anything else because it would give away the story. This isn’t a story about s-x, but about two lonely people who come together for friendship and companionship. It’s very sweet, not twee, but sweet. You really feel for both of these older people. Read it.

Tasting Spoons

My blog's namesake - small, old and some very dented engraved silver plated tea spoons that belonged to my mother-in-law, and I use them to taste my food as I'm cooking.

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Posted in Desserts, on November 11th, 2009.

chocolate souffle_2

Don’t you just want to grab a spoon and scrape up that drip and move it directly into your mouth? Because the soufflé top was tilting the way it did, I couldn’t photograph the top without viewing the drip. So, drip it is. Does it make it more real?

I mentioned last week that I’d been to a Julia Child cooking class. Taught by one of my favorite teachers, Phillis Carey. She was a particular fan of Julia’s, so it was no trouble for her to find recipes for a class. Phillis made coq au vin, chicken fricassee, the Roulade au Fromage, and Beef Bourguignon too. And this chocolate treat. Over the years I have made chocolate soufflé – maybe once. And I’ve made a chilled frothy gelatin kind of soufflé, but unless it’s baked like this one, it’s not a true soufflé. And although the instructions below seem long and tedious, it’s really not that hard. One of the great things about this recipe is that, except for baking them, you can make these ahead – yes, really – you keep them chilled until you’re ready to bake. They will keep overnight, but ideally make them earlier in the day and pop them in the oven about halfway through your dinner. Small ramekins take about 35 minutes. A larger single bowl of soufflé would take longer, probably 55 minutes or so. Whatever you do, once the top is puffed up (do NOT open the oven door to peek – you need to look through the door) don’t overbake it or it will be dry. Phillis told us that in France they generally bake soufflés at a 425 (a higher temp) for a shorter time period, because they prefer the center to still be soft and molten. This may be a change Julia made to this recipe – or Phillis did. Am not sure, but these are baked at 375 for 35 minutes.

What you see in the top-center is a small hole in the soufflé where Phillis piped in some freshly whipped cream, which oozes down into the soufflé. In France they serve a dessert soufflé (making a slot in the middle of the soufflé and spooning in something) with either a chocolate or vanilla sauce. In this one it’s just whipped cream, which I liked very much. Just remember that you must whisk these to your dinner guests immediately – within a minute or two – or the soufflé will begin to deflate, and you definitely don’t want THAT! Serve the ramekins on a plate with a small cocktail napkin underneath, to catch any drips and so the crock won’t slide around on the plate.
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Chocolate Soufflé (Soufflé au Chocolat)

Recipe By: A Julia Child recipe, prepared at a cooking class by Phillis Carey, 10/09
Serving Size: 8
NOTES: The soufflés can be prepared ahead, then baked just before serving. Do serve them immediately, though. Don’t forget to sugar the dishe(es), as the souffle needs the texture in the dish to climb the sides, to puff correctly.

3 tablespoons instant coffee granules — OR
2 tablespoons instant espresso — OR use a small amount of very strong, real espresso in lieu of the boiling water
3 tablespoons boiling water
6 ounces semisweet chocolate — chopped
1/3 cup cornstarch
1 1/2 cups whole milk — (or a combo of milk and heavy cream to equal the approximate butterfat content of whole milk)
1/2 cup sugar
3 tablespoons soft butter
5 large eggs — separated
2 large egg whites
1/8 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar
2 tablespoons sugar
2/3 cup heavy cream

1. Butter a 2-quart soufflé dish well and coat with granulated sugar or flour. Or use 6-8 small ramekins and utilize same process. If using a single soufflé dish you must make a collar around the top of the dish. Cut a piece of aluminum foil about 12″ wide and 1 1/2 inches longer than the circumference of the dish. Fold foil in half lengthwise, butter one side and surround dish with foil, butter side in. Secure with a straight pin, head down for easier removal.
2. Place water in the bottom of a double boiler or medium saucepan; bring to a boil and then remove from heat. In the top of the double boiler or in a stainless steel bowl place the coffee. Stir in the boiling water to dissolve the coffee; stir chocolate into coffee and set over hot water in pan off the heat. Stir briefly until chocolate starts to melt, then set aside and let rest for 5 minutes; stir until smooth.
3. Preheat oven to 375.
4. Place cornstarch in a medium saucepan; add a few tablespoons of the milk and whisk to blend completely. Whisk in the remaining milk and the 1/2 cup sugar. Stir over medium heat until sauce comes to a boil and thickens. Boil, stirring constantly, for 30 seconds. Scrape sauce off sides of pan with rubber spatula; spread softened butter over the top of the custard and set aside.
5. When ready to continue, scrape custard into a large bowl and whisk in the melted chocolate. Whisk in egg yolks.
6. Whip all seven egg whites with cream of tartar and salt until egg whites form soft peaks. Sprinkle on the 2 T. sugar and beat until egg whites form stiff peaks.
7. Fold 1/4 of the whipped egg whites into the chocolate mixture. Stir it to “lighten” the chocolate. Then add the remaining whites and fold gently, but thoroughly, until there are no more streaks of egg white. Carefully spoon the soufflé into the prepared dish(es). For the ramekins, fill them to just below the top of each small ramekin. You may refrigerate the soufflés at this point for several hours, or up to overnight.
8. Place the ramekins on a Silpat or foil lined sheet (in case there are any overflows) and bake, without opening the door, for 35 minutes (ramekins) or 45-55 minutes for the large soufflé dish, or until the soufflés puffed and set. Remove from oven, and remove foil collar (if using) and serve immediately with the heavy cream that has been whipped. Serve the ramekins on a plate, using a small napkin underneath each one.
Per Serving: 360 Calories; 21g Fat (51.0% calories from fat); 8g Protein; 38g Carbohydrate; trace Dietary Fiber; 174mg Cholesterol; 120mg Sodium.

A year ago: Filet Mignon with Mushrooms and Blue Cheese

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  1. Momstah

    said on December 26th, 2012:

    I made this recipe for Christmas and thought it turned out well. Two comments about step 6, which is confusing as written. First, the reference to salt – I omitted it as it was not listed in the ingredients. Also, calling for “all the egg whites” required a check against other recipes to clarify whether this meant the two separated egg whites (yes) or all five of them (no). Otherwise, good recipe and I will use it again!

    Thanks for the instructions enhancements. I’ll go fix that soon so it reads better. . . [later] I went to 3 other websites to compare the recipes for egg whites. I don’t own Julia’s “Mastering” cookbooks, so had to rely on online versions. All indicated you use all 7 egg whites, so I’ve changed the recipe to say “seven.” The omission of salt in the recipe must have been my oversight – it IS in the original recipes I found online, so I added it into mine as well. I hope you try it again with all 7 egg whites – it should make a huge difference! . . . carolyn t

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