As part of the lore of baking, I had always heard or read that once you combine the baking leavening agent (baking powder or baking soda) with any wet ingredients, you’ve got to bake it right away. Because the leavening will do its thing and die otherwise. Well, there’s something wrong with that reasoning, because this recipe, for a make-ahead coffee cake – WITH both baking powder and baking soda contained in it, can sit overnight in the refrigerator and in the morning it bakes and rises just fine. How come? I don’t know. Maybe somebody with more of a cooking chemistry background can answer the question!
Over the years that my DH has been in his men’s Bible study group, whenever it’s his turn to host, I scramble to find something that will work. Usually I have to bake something the day before and Dave reheats it in the oven for a short time in the morning, or I’ve gotten up at some really unreasonable hour in order to prepare and bake something so it’s ready to serve by 6:45 am. But neither option has been ideal. So when I saw this recipe online recently I knew I’d make this the next time Dave hosts the group.
This makes two 9-inch (round or 8-inch square ones) pans of coffeecake. You can halve it, as I did, but the other option is to freeze one of them in batter form (up to a month) and just add 10 minutes to the baking time when you bake it from a frozen state. I mean, is that easy, or what?
Leave it to the folks at Cook’s Illustrated (aka America’s Test Kitchen, Cook’s Country) to develop a make-ahead bakery item that works. I subscribe to an email from Cook’s Illustrated (although I don’t pay for an online subscription, just the magazine) and it was sent out with one of them, and the recipe was available then. Not now. I printed it out back then, but did find it online at another site also. But, back to how the make-ahead part works. I pulled out my favorite reference book On Food and Cooking: The Science and Lore of the Kitchen by Harold McGee. It says that using cream of tartar releases 2/3 of its leavening power within 2 minutes of mixing. But if the acid (whatever it is in the batter that provides acid – like buttermilk, yogurt, brown sugar, molasses, fruit juices, vinegar and even chocolate) is not very soluble (so that would likely be yogurt, brown sugar, molasses – not the more liquid of the acids), then it can be held for awhile and only when it’s baked does the leavening begin to work. Baking powder, on the other hand, is called “double-acting” because it does have some part of it that activates when you mix the batter together, but the other part doesn’t release until it’s in the oven. The book also says that in the restaurant business there is a type of baking powder that contains slow-release acids just so the leavening action doesn’t dissipate while the batter sits, before it’s baked. I’ll have to look at Surfas, the mostly pro cookware and foodstuffs store in Los Angeles, to see if they carry such a thing. Probably in 10 pound boxes. Uhm, no thank you.
So, back to this coffee cake. It was simple enough to prepare, really. I made half a recipe because my freezer is full to the brim. I found the batter to be stiffer than expected, so had a hard time spreading it. In the picture at left – the dough layer in the left-hand photo – you can see where I had to use my fingers to kind of spread it out. On the right side shows the nut streusel on the top. I ended up using my finger to kind of chop off little globs of batter all over. Then I dampened my fingers with water and spread it out (the water helps the batter from sticking to your fingers). Then you spread the non-nut streusel in the middle. Then the other half of the batter goes on top. I did the same thing with dampened fingers to spread it out. Then the nut enhanced streusel goes on the top and it’s refrigerated. My DH got up at 5:30 so he could bake this. He just had to take the foil cover off the top of the cake pan and pop it in the oven for 45 minutes. It does need to cool for at least 15 minutes before serving. One interesting note about the streusel – the recipe has you make the sugar-flour-cinnamon combo and divide it in half. Half of it gets nuts, which goes on the top only. The info says that in their testing of this recipe they found that the steam the nuts produced in the oven made the batter/dough around them soggy. Interesting, I thought.
And the taste – really good! There are crusty parts on it (from the streusel), which made for good taste contrast. Next time I think I’ll add some cocoa powder in with the streusel – just because I like it. The cinnamon was subtle and I think it could be pumped up a bit. The cake rose perfectly in the oven – amazing! It didn’t look like it was in any way stunted because of overnight refrigeration. Yes, I’d make this again if only because of the ease of it!
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Make-Ahead Coffee Cake
Recipe By: Cook’s Country (Cook’s Illustrated/America’s Test Kitchen)
Serving Size: 12
STREUSEL:
2/3 cup packed light brown sugar
2/3 cup granulated sugar
2/3 cup all-purpose flour
1 1/2 tablespoons ground cinnamon
8 tablespoons cold unsalted butter — (1 stick) cut into 1/2-inch pieces
1/2 cup chopped pecans — (I used walnuts)
CAKE:
3 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1 cup packed light brown sugar
1 cup granulated sugar
2 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 1/2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon salt
12 tablespoons unsalted butter — (1 1/2 sticks) softened
3 large eggs
1 3/4 cups sour cream — (I used low-fat type)
1. For the streusel: Pulse sugars, flour, cinnamon, and butter in food processor until mixture resembles coarse meal. Divide streusel in half. Stir pecans into one half and reserve separately.
2. For the cake: Grease two 9-inch cake pans. With electric mixer on medium-low speed, mix flour, sugars, baking powder, baking soda, cinnamon, and salt in large bowl. Beat in butter, 1 tablespoon at a time, until mixture is crumbly with pea-sized pieces, 1 to 2 minutes. Add eggs, one at a time, until combined. Add sour cream in 3 additions, scraping down bowl as necessary. Increase speed to medium-high and beat until batter is light and fluffy, about 2 minutes.
3. Divide half of batter between prepared pans. You may need to spread the dough around. Using spoonsful of dough around the pan then spreading with dampened fingers worked well for me. Sprinkle streusel without nuts evenly over each pan. Divide remaining batter evenly between pans and top with nutty streusel. Wrap pans with plastic wrap and refrigerate for up to 24 hours or freeze for up to 1 month.
4. When ready to serve: Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 350 degrees. Unwrap cakes and bake until golden brown and toothpick inserted in center comes out with a few dry crumbs attached, about 40-45 minutes (about 55 minutes if frozen). Cool at least 15 minutes. Serve.
5. This recipe produces two small coffee cakes, which can be baked on different days if desired (unbaked cakes can be frozen for up to 1 month). We omit the nuts from the streusel used inside the coffee cake, because the nuts give off steam when baked, which can make the cake soggy. If you don’t have two 9-inch round pans, NOTES: Don’t overbake – my oven runs a bit on the hot side, so this was done in 40 minutes. Test with a toothpick and remove when it’s no longer wet. Next time I’ll add about 2 tablespoons of cocoa powder to the streusel mixture (in addition to the cinnamon). Just because. I didn’t have enough sour cream when I made this, so added some yogurt instead. Worked fine.
Per Serving: 677 Calories; 31g Fat (40.8% calories from fat); 8g Protein; 94g Carbohydrate; 2g Dietary Fiber; 120mg Cholesterol; 326mg Sodium.
A year ago: Leek & Turnip Puree
Two years ago: Shiitake-Crusted Chicken

Kathleen Heckathorn
said on February 5th, 2010:
I don’t have a cooking chemistry background, but I can tell you that last week I bought some frozen bread dough and had planned to bake it for a dinner party. When it had already started to thaw on the counter, I realized that I wouldn’t have enough time to go through the entire thawing/rising/baking process before my guests arrived. I didn’t think it would be a good idea to refreeze the dough, so I put it in the refrigerator. The next morning I discovered that it had actually risen in the refrigerator! I didn’t think it would be any good, but I baked it anyway and it was delicious. Go figure.
It’s absolutely true that yeast dough will continue to rise in the refrigerator. It’s all a matter of how much yeast is there. And how long you leave it there. Recipes abound for “refrigerator rolls,” that do all their rising in the refrigerator and you need only dip into it to bake what rolls you need for a meal. Some keeps for several days in the refrigerator. But quick breads, using baking powder and baking soda are altogether different animals, so to speak. All I know is that this coffee cake worked like a charm! . . . carolyn t
Tia @ ButtercreamBarbie
said on August 2nd, 2010:
i just tried making this and loved it!!! it was awesome, thanks for the recipe.
You’re welcome, though I can’t take credit for creating it. I’ll be making this again myself one of these days. . . carolyn t
A Stow
said on January 2nd, 2022:
Made this for our Christmas morning breakfast to rave reviews! Added the cocoa to the inner layer…and used chopped sugar-n-spice pecans and sliced almonds in topping. Poured a thin powdered sugar/milk icing over it when slightly cooled – before serving. It was delish the day I baked it and held well (and may have tasted even better the next day!).
Carolyn
said on January 2nd, 2022:
So glad your family enjoyed it. It’s been such a regular at past Christmas mornings, I can’t count the number. . . Carolyn T