I probably should start out this posting with the sentence: I love thyme. It is this recipe that introduced me to its culinary virtues. And I’ve been a frequent user ever since.
My memory serves me poorly on this recipe. I’ve been making it for so long, and it’s been written into my old recipe binder for so many years that I didn’t remember who gave it to me. When I did a search for the title (in French), sure enough, I found it. This is Julia Child’s recipe from her first major tome, Mastering the Art of French Cooking (2 Volume Set). I found a write-up about the recipe on the Julia-Julie Project (the young woman who decided to methodically cook the entire contents of Julia’s book in a year, all the while blogging about it, and she subsequently wrote a book based on her blog). I tried to read her blog a couple of years ago (after I read Julia’s memoir, My Life in France by Julia Child
, written by her nephew, which I just loved), but this woman, named Julie, has such a foul mouth I just couldn’t continue. (I’m not even going to insert a link to her site because I disliked it so much.) I don’t understand why people feel they have to use the f and s words in every sentence. (Later note . . . Julie’s website was taken down once work started on the movie, Julie & Julia.)
So, obviously, this isn’t anything original. This has been a staple in my cooking repertoire for 35 years. I’ve even served it to guests (I double the sauce in that case), and whenever I do make these I make extra and freeze at least 4 patties so I can make them just by defrosting. They aren’t difficult. Not in the least, although they do take a bit more time than just making patties from raw meat and cooking them.
Since I haven’t read Julia Child’s take on using minced beef (raw), I don’t know the origin of this method either. But she recommends using lean beef (I use 80/20 in this), then you ADD butter to the raw meat. Interesting, huh? Most current chefs and cooking magazines recommend using nothing leaner than ground chuck. But, realize that when you cook these, if the cold butter is in the middle, when the heat finally reaches the butter, it melts right into the meat, not out into the pan. That’s what gives the meat it’s richness. But first you saute some onion and butter, cool it, then combine that with egg and thyme to make thick patties. It’s necessary to allow these to chill a little bit (with the egg to hold it together). That’s an important step. Then you dredge them in flour, then fry them up until done to your liking. I cook them to about 130°F using an instant read thermometer, with the probe inserted into the side.
You remove them from the pan and set in a warm oven while you make the sauce. Drain the fat from the pan, and add wine or broth. I usually use sherry wine, but have also used red wine. You can also use broth, or white wine for that matter. Deglaze the pan, scraping up any of those pan juices and little sticky parts, until the wine has evaporated some. Remove from heat and add some additional butter, in bits. Pour into a HOT little pitcher to serve at the table. The recipe says pour the sauce on the burgers, but then most of the sauce ends up on the platter, not on the burger, so I prefer a pitcher.
I like serving this with pasta, just simple buttered pasta. Because some of that sauce tastes great with the pasta. Or mashed potatoes work well here too. Then with a bright colored veg – like broccoli, or green beans perhaps. And a salad. This used to be – back in the days when nobody thought anything of eating beef 3-4 nights a week – this was a frequent visitor on my regular family menu. Now it’s a treat.
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French Hamburgers
Recipe: Julia Child’s “Mastering the Art of French Cooking”
Servings: 4
BEEF PATTIES:
3/4 cup onion — minced
2 tablespoons butter — to saute the onions
1 1/2 pounds lean ground beef
2 tablespoons butter — softened, to add to the raw meat
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
1/8 teaspoon pepper
1/4 teaspoon thyme
1 whole egg
1 tablespoon butter — for frying
1 tablespoon vegetable oil — for frying
DREDGING:
1/2 cup flour
SAUCE:
1/2 cup red wine — or sherry or port
2 tablespoons butter
1. Cook minced onion slowly for 10 minutes in butter, until tender, but not brown. Pour into a mixing bowl and allow to cool completely. Add the ground beef, additional butter, and seasonings to the onions and mix just until combined. Form into patties, 3/4 inch thick. Cover with wax paper and chill several hours. If you don’t want the burgers to “dome” in the middle, press an indentation in the center of each burger.
2. Just before sauteing the patties, roll them in the flour. In a large, heavy frying pan, melt butter and oil, bring to a moderately high temperature and add patties. Sear them until they’re brown on both sides, then reduce heat until they’re done to your liking – medium rare is about 130°F. This usually takes longer than I think – about 110-15 minutes.
3. Remove patties to a heated oven. Pour fat out of the pan and add sherry (or other wine), scraping up the pan juices, until it’s reduced to a thick syrup. Take off the heat and add the butter and stir until it’s melted and serve in a small pitcher to pour over the patties. I often use a knife or a fork to poke holes in the top of the patties (after they’re cooked) so the wine sauce will seep down into the meat.
4. Note: the original recipe calls for red wine, white wine, vermouth or beef stock for the sauce. You can use either red wine, sherry or light port. My preference is sherry.
Per Serving: 558 Calories; 33g Fat (56.7% calories from fat); 40g Protein; 17g Carbohydrate; 1g Dietary Fiber; 205mg Cholesterol; 1160mg Sodium; 2g Total Sugars; trace Vitamin D; 44mg Calcium; 5mg Iron; 733mg Potassium; 404mg Phosphorus.

Kalyn
said on August 13th, 2007:
Hi Carolyn,
I wondered if you knew that Lisa from Champaign Taste is having a blog event to celebrate Julia Child’s birthday on August 15. This recipe would be perfect for it!
You would have to edit and add a link to Champaign Taste if you wanted to enter; then just send Lisa the permalink for this entry and she would mention your blog and recipe in the roundup. No pressure, I just thought you might like your recipe to be included.
Carolyn T
said on August 15th, 2007:
Thanks, Kalyn. I did read her blog a few weeks ago and had forgotten all about it. Thanks for the reminder. Don’t know if I’ve made it under the deadline or not. We were out of town for 2 days and just sent it this morning. We’ll see.
Carolyn T
Fully Alive
said on April 29th, 2016:
We just finished dinner – the Bifteck Hache a la Lyonnaise along with the Pasta in Tomato Cream Sauce and fresh steamed asparagus. We are rubbing our bellies and smiling. Both were delicious and quite easy. Even better – just a few inexpensive ingredients. Thank you for sharing.
Debbie
I’m so glad you enjoyed the dinner! Two of my favorite recipes. Thanks for letting me know . . . carolyn t
CLIFF TIGERT
said on October 18th, 2021:
Always thought burgers were best cooked on a charcoal grill, but these proved me wrong. The only reason Julia Childs is no longer with us is because GOD needed an executive French Chef!!!!!
I like that idea a lot! Glad you enjoyed the burgers. I haven’t made those in a long time so thanks for the reminder! . . . carolyn t
Martin C. Cappa
said on July 24th, 2022:
Two problems. 1) why would you spend extra $$$ om lean ground beef only to add fat to it (2 TBLs butter) and then fry it in more fat? 2) why the egg? Egg in ground beef is for meat balls and/or meat loaf…not hamburger. If someone thinks this is agood hamburger then then he/she has no business in the kitchen.
Well, Martin, I don’t know what to say . . . this is a Julia Child recipe and adding butter to the meat gives it a different kind of richness than beef fat. Yes, fry it in butter. When Julia developed this recipe, no one thought anything about frying everything in butter. The egg helps hold it together – you don’t have to use it. What makes this burger is the sauce prepared after the burger is cooked. I don’t know how old you are, but back in the day (Julia Child’s time) ordering a Salisbury steak (a common menu item) was very similar to this French style burger. And I’m sorry to disagree with you, but this burger is absolutely fabulous. I’ve made it a hundred times over my lifetime. Not often, but probably twice a year (I’m old). It’s a very good entrée, and one I’ve served to guests. It’s contained in one of Julia Child’s cookbooks. Do you think she had no business being in a kitchen? I’m wondering if you’re confusing “healthy” with “good (tasting)” because they are not synonymous. This burger isn’t in any way healthy, but what it is is GOOD tasting.. . . carolyn t
Mimi
said on August 17th, 2022:
I found your website looking for this specific recipe and am now a fan. The recipe is delicious and your commentary is perfect 🙂
How very sweet of you to start watching my blog. It is a delicious recipe – I haven’t made it in awhile, and may just have to. . . carolyn t
Roy
said on September 1st, 2022:
So, where can I put the 6 out of 5 stars? Was not expecting much from this but I was pleasantly surprised by the delicate essence but depth of flavors. This will be on our dodder table at least 5-6 times a year. We are not big fans of thyme, will try to substitute tarragon next time. Also pulled my Mastering the Art of French Cooking and looked up the recipe, 3 pages and so many variations! Thank you for bringing this set of recipes to my attention.
Well, I’m honored you decided to venture outside of your normal box and make this. It’s just SO good. For me it’s all about the sauce! Thanks for commenting, Roy. . . carolyn t
Alex Marting
said on November 6th, 2024:
This is the perfect touch to a French hamburger! I grew up eating these. I can’t imagine cooking the entire contents of Julia’s book in a year, that’s some motivation! Thanks, you for sharing.