Tasting Spoons

Have you ever heard or read about how hard it is to photograph brown and beige things? Hope you can even figure out this is onions! I had to balance some of the onions on a fork with my left hand and try to hold the camera steady AND click the shutter with my right hand. All to show some added depth to the photo. And although this may not look all that appetizing, it’s actually very good. Would I kid you?

After just stating yesterday that I didn’t have any posts waiting in the wings, I looked, and oh yes, I had this one. I hadn’t posted it because I made the onion pepper relish to go with the beef sliders for the 4th of July, and thought the two were too similar. This one is less sweet than the relish - more suited for a slab of grilled meat probably, than the burgers and accompaniments. I still have some of this in the refrigerator (as well as the relish from the 4th), and assume it will keep for another few weeks since it’s “pickled,” so to speak, with the vinegar. Hope so, as it was delicious and very suitable for some meat things. I used it on a sandwich last week too.

We had some friends over for dinner a few weeks ago, and with the pork roast we did on the rotisserie (that I’d brined) I wanted to serve some kind of sauce or salsa, or something. Found a recipe for a pork rib roast with this onion marmalade. It was just a perfect fit. And oh-my-goodness deliciousness. It’s not difficult, although it does take some time (total cooking time about an hour) to sweat down the onions, then to continue to cook them down to a jammy consistency. If you started this first (when about to make a dinner) it would be done by the time you were ready to sit down).

The recipe came from Food & Wine magazine, May 2008. If you want to do the pork roast, just brine it, bake or rotisserie it until it reaches an internal temp of about 133 degrees (still pink in the middle). Remove and let sit for about 5 minutes before slicing and serving with this cold, room temp or hot onion topping. The leftovers will keep for several weeks.

Balsamic Onion Marmalade

Recipe By: Food & Wine, May ‘08.

Servings: 8

4 whole onions — peeled, sliced

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

1 pinch ground cloves

1/4 cup dark brown sugar

2/3 cup balsamic vinegar

1 1/2 teaspoons orange zest

salt and pepper to taste

1.  In a large pot (large enough to barely hold all the onions) heat the oil until it starts to shimmer.  Add the onions and cook over moderate heat until softened, about 20 minutes.  Do not let them burn or brown.

2.  Season the onions with the ground cloves, salt and pepper.  Add the brown sugar and cook over moderately low heat until the skillet is dry, about 10 minutes.  Add the balsamic vinegar and orange zest and continue to cook over low heat, stirring occasionally, until the marmalade is very thick, 30 minutes.  Transfer the marmalade to a bowl, cover and refrigerate.  Reheat, if you prefer it hot, just before serving, or serve cold, or at room temperature.

Per Serving: 65 Calories; 2g Fat (23.0% calories from fat); 1g Protein; 13g Carbohydrate; 1g Dietary Fiber; 0mg Cholesterol; 5mg Sodium.

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Over the years since the tri-tip roast became more visible at the butcher shop (or at Costco), I’d not been bitten by the bug. Lots of people raved about it. I wasn’t convinced. Yes, I had some here and there when someone else made it. After all, it looks like a fillet mignon. It just doesn’t taste like one, and it certainly doesn’t chew like one. But I read an article recently for tri-tip, extolling its virtues. So, when I visited my local, favorite butcher and they had Niman Ranch tri-tips, rib eyes and porterhouses, I figured if Niman Ranch was producing them, and if my butcher was showcasing the tri-tips with its very uptown relatives, then maybe they were worth reconsidering.

If you’ve never been much of a tri-tip fan, I won’t be convincing you otherwise. I don’t really think I am, either. This recipe doesn’t make tri-tip taste or chew any better than a fairly chewy piece of meat. But if you enjoy a bit of chew, this preparation may be just down your alley.

Tri-tip is a cut of meat that comes from the bottom sirloin. If you’ve ever had a sirloin from the bottom end and noticed that it was a lot more chewy and less tender, well, this is cut from that end. There are only two of them on every animal, so that’s why we don’t see them all that often. They’re very lean, I’ll give them that. Although there are some sinews and a bit of gristle, there’s really very little. So, if you’re going to eat red meat, this is fairly healthy. It needs marinating to give it more flavor, and to tenderize it. At least 24 hours worth.

The recipe comes from Bon Appetit, June, 2002. My DH enjoyed the flavor. My opinion? Eh. It’s not the preparation I didn’t like; it’s the cut of meat. If you go onto epicurious for this recipe, there are countless reviews of it. Some loved it. Others didn’t. Most people raved about the relish. I didn’t make the relish because I still had some mango-strawberry salsa I made the other night. But I think the cherry tomato relish would be a much better complement to the beef than the salsa. The marinade has a more savory taste, and a sweet salsa doesn’t go. It just doesn’t. But, no matter what, you can’t change the taste or the chew of the meat. So, knowing all that, you can decide whether you’d like to try this.

I don’t usually post recipes here that I don’t just love, but since I thought maybe other people would like the meat better than I did, I’m posting it anyway.

Grilled tri-tip roast with tequila marinade and cherry tomato relish

Recipe By: Bon Appetit, June, 2002

Serving Size: 8

4 pounds beef tri-tip roast — (two roasts), trimmed of visible fat and sinew

MARINADE:

1/2 cup fresh lime juice

1/2 cup fresh cilantro — chopped

1/2 cup olive oil

1/3 cup soy sauce

1/4 cup tequila

7 whole garlic cloves — unpeeled, mashed

2 teaspoons lime peel — grated

2 teaspoons ground cumin

2 teaspoons dried oregano

1 teaspoon ground black pepper

CHERRY TOMATO RELISH:

1/4 cup balsamic vinegar

4 teaspoons chopped fresh oregano

3/4 cup olive oil

1/8 cup green chiles — canned, drained, diced

4 green onions — finely chopped

4 cups halved cherry tomatoes

1.  Whisk first 10 ingredients in medium bowl.  Using small sharp knife, pierce meat all over.  Place meat in large re-sealable plastic bag; add marinade.  Seal bag.  Refrigerate at least 2 hours or overnight, turning plastic bag occasionally. 

2.  Prepare barbecue (medium-high heat).  Remove meat from marinade.  Discard marinade.  Grill meat to desired doneness, about 10 minutes per side for medium-rare.  Transfer to cutting board.  Tent with foil; let stand 10 minutes.  Cut diagonally across grain.  Serve meat with Cherry Tomato Relish.

3.  RELISH: Whisk vinegar and oregano in medium bowl to blend.  Gradually whisk in oil.  Mix in green chilies and green onions.  (Can be made 6 hours ahead; cover; chill.) Add tomatoes; toss to coat.  Season with salt and pepper. 

Per Serving: 360 Calories; 35g Fat (87.0% calories from fat); 3g Protein; 9g Carbohydrate; 2g Dietary Fiber; 3mg Cholesterol; 698mg Sodium.  Exchanges: 0 Grain (Starch); 0 Lean Meat; 1 Vegetable; 0 Fruit; 7 Fat.

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At a recent cooking class, my friend Cherrie and I watched the chef prepare these puff appetizers. We looked at one another and whispered, no, we wouldn’t be making these things. Mind you, we hadn’t tasted them yet. Too much work, we said. Hah. One bite and we were both hooked. These little guys are nothing but small rounds of puff pastry topped with a bit of caramelized onion, some shredded gruyere and a sprinkle of fresh sage. It was the caramelizing of the onions that seemed to us to infer too much work.

Having caramelized onions many times, it’s not really all that difficult. Just takes a bit of time to get them to that honeyed succulence released from their internal cells. The onions could be made ahead, but the rest of the prep must be done just before baking. You might glance at this recipe and think the same thing we did – ah, too much work – but you’ll be missing out if you do.

Caramelized Onion and Sage Puffs

Recipe By: Deb Buzar, professional chef

Serving Size: 24

1 package frozen puff pastry sheets — thawed

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

2 medium sweet onions — thinly sliced

1 teaspoon sugar

3/4 cup gruyere cheese — grated

2 tablespoons fresh sage — chopped

freshly ground black pepper

1.  Preheat oven to 450 degrees.

2.  On a lightly floured surface, or between sheets of plastic wrap, roll out the puff pastry to flatten any rough spots.  Using a 2-inch fluted cutter, cut out rounds from each pastry sheet.  Place the rounds on a parchment (or Silpat) lined baking sheet and place in the refrigerator until the rest of the ingredients are ready.

3.  In a heavy bottomed saucepan, melt the butter over medium heat.  Add the thinly sliced onions and cook, stirring until wilted.  Reduce the heat and cook, stirring frequently, until the onions develop a rich golden color.  DO NOT burn - they want to be just a golden color.  Add the sugar and continue cooking until the onions are the color of brown sugar.  Remove from the heat and set aside.

4.  Spread a small dollop of onions on each pastry round.  Add a little sprinkle of chopped sage on top, then sprinkle with grated cheese.  Add pepper to taste.

5.  Bake the puffs for about 15 minutes, or until the pastry is golden brown and the cheese has melted.  Allow to cool a few minutes before serving.

NOTES: If you use too much onion or cheese, it will be too heavy and the puffs won’t rise as they should. As you cut out the pastry circles, press straight down – don’t twist as you cut, as that will prevent the pastry from rising as well.

Per Serving: 80 Calories; 6g Fat (62.2% calories from fat); 2g Protein; 6g Carbohydrate; trace Dietary Fiber; 5mg Cholesterol; 38mg Sodium.  Exchanges: 1/2 Grain (Starch); 0 Lean Meat; 0 Vegetable; 1 Fat; 0 Other Carbohydrates.

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In our local area, we happen to frequent a Mexican restaurant called Jalapeno’s. Now, my DH isn’t all that crazy about Mexican food (he was raised in Ocean City, New Jersey, so what does that tell you – New Jerseyites don’t know from Mexican food - at least not the ones born prior to about 1980), but since I am a native Californian, Mexican cuisine feels like part of my DNA. I know it’s not, because I’m blond and blue-eyed, but tacos and enchiladas were part of my growing up, so at least in cuisine, I’ll claim it as part of my DNA. My parents and I craved Mexican food at least once a week, without fail. When we’d go camping every summer for two weeks, we were deprived of our favorite out-to-dinner menu, and usually the very next night back home, we were over at our favorite restaurant in San Diego, called Aztec Dining Room (it’s been closed for about 6-7 years now), enjoying our regular stuff. I still crave Mexican food on a regular basis.

We do have lots and LOTS of Mexican restaurants in our area, but not many that I consider fabulous. This little place, Jalapeno’s, is family-run, and you have to stand in line to order at a counter, then they deliver the piping hot food to your table.

 

Once in awhile I can get my DH to go there, but really not very often. So, when he spends a night on our boat in San Diego, unless I have other plans, I zip down to Jalapeno’s for dinner. I order a chile relleno, or maybe their delicious shredded beef tacos, or a cheese enchilada. They make their own chips and fresh tomato salsa. And, they also make a fabulous marinated carrot relish. It’s made in huge vats, it’s that popular, and all I’ve ever known was that it contained what you can see in it: carrot coins, garlic, onions, bay leaf and hot chiles. Oh yes, vinegar. We know the recipe is the family matriarch’s prized recipe. They won’t share it. Even our local paper requested it, and they refused. They sell the carrots, but they’re gosh-darned expensive, so I’ve been trying to figure out how to make them. Since I don’t cook Mexican food much, I’ve had a hard time finding any recipes for them, but then I’ve always been looking for a CARROT relish.

So, when I read an article by Steven Raichlen in Bon Appetit Magazine (May 2008 issue), it mentioned this pickled ONION relish, from the Yucatan. So, I definitely had to try it. It’s not difficult – you simmer the onions, garlic and salt in water for just ONE minute. Drain off the water, then add some white vinegar, bay leaf, allspice, pepper, oregano, cumin and water, then bring that to a boil, turn off the heat, cool and serve.

Nearly a year ago I posted a recipe for stacked enchiladas (a vegetarian casserole type dish with black beans) with an onion relish on the side. I’ve made it a couple of times because I love the onions as a garnish on sandwiches, but since this new recipe contains some of the ingredients I know are in Jalapeno’s carrots, I needed to try this.

They’re good – not by themselves, of course – but they didn’t taste like what I expected. They’re great on a sandwich and as a relish, but they’re quite piquant, tart, by themselves. I did sprinkle in some Splenda to the vinegar solution (after they were cooked), and I like them better. Perhaps when Jalapeno’s makes it with carrots – because they’re so sweet – they lend a general sweetness to the mixture on their own. I didn’t have any carrots, otherwise I would have added some to the onions, just to see how they would work. Because these are so easy to make, I’d definitely make them again, probably adding more garlic and perhaps sugar. Or, I may go to my previous recipe and add some spices to it, and see what that tastes like.

Yucatecan Pickled Onions

Recipe By: Steven Raichlen, Bon Appetit, May 2008

Serving Size: 10

6 cups water

1 large red onion — cut in 1/8-inch-thick slices, rings separated

2 whole garlic cloves — quartered

1 tablespoon kosher salt — coarse salt

1/2 cup white vinegar

3 whole allspice

1 whole bay leaf

1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper

1/2 teaspoon dried oregano — preferably Mexican

1/4 teaspoon ground cumin

2 packets Splenda (or sugar) [my addition]

1.  Combine 6 cups water, onion, garlic, and 1 tablespoon coarse salt in heavy medium saucepan.  Bring to boil, then boil 1 minute.  Drain off liquid. 

2.  Return onions and garlic to same saucepan.  Add vinegar and all remaining ingredients.  Add enough water to saucepan just to cover onions.  Bring to boil over medium heat.  Remove from heat, cover, and cool. [Add Splenda at this point, if using.]

3.  Transfer onion mixture to bowl, cover, and chill overnight.  DO AHEAD: Can be made 1 week ahead.  Keep chilled.  Drain onions and serve.

Per Serving: 14 Calories; trace Fat (10.1% calories from fat); trace Protein; 4g Carbohydrate; 1g Dietary Fiber; 0mg Cholesterol; 570mg Sodium.  Exchanges: 0 Grain (Starch); 0 Lean Meat; 1/2 Vegetable; 0 Fat; 0 Other Carbohydrates.

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Last week when my friend Cherrie and I attended a cooking class in San Diego, the instructor, Phillis Carey, mentioned another recipe in the course of conversation, saying that it was one of her very favorites. That she can eat it once, twice, three times in a row, it’s so good. It was similar in style to a recipe she made at the class. My ears always perk up when I hear statements like that – a cooking instructor mentioning one of HER favorites.

Since I have Phillis’ cookbook, Fast & Fabulous Chicken Breasts (only available in and from the stores where Phillis teaches), when I got home I looked up the recipe. Since I had all the necessary ingredients, I made it for dinner. Oh my. Oh my. It was absolutely scrumptious.

It’s like the ubiquitous cream of mushroom soup, except it’s the real thing – a cream sauce with mushrooms. And bacon. And onions. And the delicious paprika in the sauce itself. Of course, the use of cream can make almost shoe leather taste good, but this is a really, really lovely preparation. I used half and half, not cream, and it seemed perfectly rich enough. And I used half-sharp paprika, which gave the sauce a bit of bite.

I know I’ve mentioned paprika here before, but if any of you are new to my blog, I’ll just mention that the paprika you buy at the grocery store (always store in the refrigerator, by the way, because it gets bugs otherwise) bears so little taste resemblance to the real thing, you’d be amazed. Buy a better paprika. Having visited Hungary and having enjoyed some of their paprika-influenced cuisine, I learned that paprika is just a wonderful flavoring agent. And coloring agent too. The pinkish tinge you see in the photo is from the paprika. What we Americans think of paprika is a very bland red powder that has virtually no flavor. But there are lots of different kinds of paprika out there, including the sharp (hotter) and half-sharp (in between), which I use regularly in my cooking. Certainly, if all you have is regular, go ahead and use it. But next time you have to buy some, get a good brand, or order it from Penzey’s, my favorite herb and spice supplier.

On to the recipe. Sorry for the detour, but I needed to get on my paprika bandwagon there. This recipe is VERY simple. Once you cut up the onion and mushrooms and gather the ingredients around you, it comes together in nothing flat. Only about 20 minutes of cooking. Hardly time to make a salad or boil some noodles or rice to serve with this.

First you flatten (pound) the chicken breasts to an even thickness, season, then brown in a bit of butter. Brown the mushrooms, then the bacon and onions, and make the cream sauce. Add everything back into the pan and cook JUST until the chicken is cooked through (so it’s still tender and moist) and serve. Cinchy. This is going onto my fix-this-often list. My DH loved it (well, he adores chicken with mushroom and cream sauce anyway). I served it with a bit of fresh zucchini on the side. I didn’t make a carb, but am sure it would wonderful with noodles, or mashed potatoes or rice.

See Cook’s Notes at the bottom of the recipe.

Chicken Breasts with Bacon, Onions and Mushrooms in Creamy Paprika Sauce

Recipe By: Phillis Carey, Fast & Fabulous Chicken Breasts

Serving Size: 4

2 whole chicken breasts, no skin, no bone — halved

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1/2 pound mushroom — sliced

3 slices bacon — chopped

1 cup onion — chopped

2 tablespoons flour

1 teaspoon paprika — regular of half -sharp

1 cup chicken broth

1 cup heavy cream — or half and half

2 tablespoons tomato paste

1. Trim chicken breasts and lightly pound between two sheets of plastic wrap to an even 1/2 inch thickness. Season chicken with salt and pepper.

2. Melt butter in a large skillet over medium high heat. Add the chicken to the skillet and cook 2 minutes per side to brown lightly. Remove chicken to a plate. Stir mushrooms into drippings in the pan and cook until golden brown, about 8 minutes. Remove mushrooms to plate with chicken.

3. Add bacon to skillet and cook over medium heat until crisp. Remove to a paper towel to drain. Add onions to bacon fat and cook for 4 minutes to soften. Stir flour and paprika into onions and then stir in the chicken broth, cream and tomato sauce. Bring to a boil, stirring constantly.

4. Return chicken, mushrooms and bacon to skillet, turning to coat with sauce. Simmer chicken, uncovered, for 5-7 minutes or until chicken is cooked through, turning over once.

Per Serving: 484 Calories; 34g Fat (62.7% calories from fat); 33g Protein; 13g Carbohydrate; 2g Dietary Fiber; 173mg Cholesterol; 421mg Sodium. Exchanges: 0 Grain (Starch); 4 Lean Meat; 1 1/2 Vegetable; 0 Non-Fat Milk; 6 Fat.

Cook’s Notes: Ideally, have all your ingredients ready when you start cooking, as it comes together quickly. Maybe not enough time to still chop and mince. Don’t overlook the pounding of the chicken breasts to an even thickness – they cook more evenly. You can use half and half instead of cream.

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You’d think . . . a scalloped potato . . . is a scalloped potato. But I’m here to tell you that not all scalloped potato recipes are created equal. This one is definitely different – it uses Monterey jack cheese, for one. And that may be about the only thing that’s truly unusual about it, although this version also requires you to make a cream sauce – one made with cornstarch and milk and cream.

The recipe came from a woman who used to work for me, in the ad agency I used to own. Occasionally, usually around the holidays, we’d have a potluck, and as years went by, it was just accepted fact that Kathy would bring her scalloped potatoes. These are just so incredibly good, and I’ve never – ever – made another kind since she introduced me to them. I’ve changed her recipe just a little over the years (adding salt and pepper, and cooking the onions before starting to layer the potatoes). And I’ve altered the ratio of milk and half and half depending on what I have on hand. Kathy’s original recipe called for all half and half, but I changed it some years ago to half milk, and maybe just a touch of heavy cream if I happen to have it.

Cook’s Notes: be sure to use Monterey jack cheese – it is what makes this recipe. And don’t skimp on the baking time – it does require a full 90 minutes of baking. I salt and pepper the cream sauce to suit my taste (making it saltier than you’d make a sauce because after all, it has to salt the entire dish). If you have it, substitute a bit of heavy cream for an equal quantity of half and half.

Monterey Scalloped Potatoes

Recipe By: Kathy S, a former employee

Serving Size : 8

5 large Idaho potatoes

10 ounces Monterey jack cheese — sliced

1 whole onion — sliced thinly

1 1/2 cups half and half

1 1/2 cups milk

3 tablespoons cornstarch

2 ounces butter

1 teaspoon salt — or to taste

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper — or to taste

1.  Preheat oven to 350.  Select a 3-quart baking dish with lid.  Spray the dish with vegetable spray. 

2.  Slice onion and place in a microwave-proof dish.  Cover with plastic wrap and cook for about 4 minutes, until onions are just barely tender.  Remove from microwave, discard plastic wrap, drain and allow to cool to a handling temperature. 

3.  Slice potatoes (with or without skins) to fill halfway up the dish.  Cover with half of the slices of cheese and half of the onion.  Repeat potato layer, cheese and onions, until dish is filled.

4.  Make white sauce with half and half, milk, cornstarch and butter.  Heat until somewhat thickened and pour over the potatoes.  Place lid on potatoes.  Bake for 90 minutes, removing lid during last 20-30 minutes. 

Per Serving: 348 Calories; 23g Fat (59.7% calories from fat); 13g Protein; 22g Carbohydrate; 2g Dietary Fiber; 70mg Cholesterol; 561mg Sodium.  Exchanges: 1 Grain (Starch); 1 Lean Meat; 0 Vegetable; 1/2 Non-Fat Milk; 4 Fat.

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Here’s the mustard and herb chicken as it was served on the plate, on a bed of red onions, with cauliflower on the side.

Here’s the chicken after baking. Note bread crumb crust.

Those of you who regularly read my blog will remember that a few days ago I felt so proud of myself after spending many hours clipping and filing recipes. It needed doing. Then yesterday I went into our laundry room, which has two tall shelves that are completely full of kitchen equipment that won’t fit in my kitchen. And I went to a 8-inch stack of handouts from cooking classes I’ve been to, and was hunting for a specific recipe that was lacking a topping. Out came the stack and I set it on the washing machine and began looking for the Joanne Weir class where she served that particular dish. And what did I find in this stack? Oh my. More recipes that had been torn out of magazines and newspapers. From about 2004 and 2005.

And yet again, one recipe floated its way to the top and said “fix me.” I’ve only begun sorting and piecing together recipes in this new stack.

Sometimes the simplest of recipes are just over-the-top good. That’s the story about this recipe. It came together in less than 30 minutes, and while the chicken was baking I was able to throw together some pan-sauteed cauliflower to serve with it. And to saute the onions that served as the bed under the chicken. The recipe came from Food & Wine, February 2006. According to F&W’s website, this was a “staff favorite.” I understand why.

You make a crumb crust from fresh bread. The recipe calls for 2 slices of country bread. Well, we don’t have country bread on hand in our house - I buy good multi-grain bread at the Corner Bakery every week or so and slices are individually wrapped and frozen. So I used one slice of that bread plus some panko crumbs to make the topping, which also contains Parmesan cheese, garlic, fresh rosemary (I dashed outside, in the dark, mind you) and a bit of olive oil to hold it together. The chicken thighs (I only had skinless, boneless, not what’s called for in the recipe) are seasoned, then browned briefly in a large saute pan that can go in the oven. Once you flip them over you slather them with some Dijon mustard, then carefully mound the crumb mixture on top before popping the pan in the oven at a high temp to bake for about 15 minutes.

Meanwhile I started the cauliflower, and about 7-8 minutes before the chicken was done I sauteed the onion, sugar and lemon juice mixture that goes underneath the chicken. DH and I both just l-o-v-e-d it. Really l-o-v-e-d it. I’ll make this again and again. The thighs were perfectly cooked. And the onions were still just slightly crunchy, which we both liked. The best part is that it came together in 30 minutes.

Cook’s Notes: The recipe says it served two (two thighs each) but for us, one thigh, with the onion bed, and another veg on the side was plenty. So for me, I’d say it served 4 if the thighs are moderate sized. I used a red onion. Any kind would likely work.

Mustard-and-Herb Chicken
Recipe: Stuart Brioza and Nicole Krasinski, Food & Wine, 2/06
Servings: 4
1 slice country bread — crusts removed, bread torn
1/4 cup panko [my addition in lieu of a 2nd piece of bread]
2 whole garlic cloves — minced
1 teaspoon fresh rosemary — finely chopped
1/4 cup Parmesan cheese — finely grated
Salt and freshly ground pepper
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
4 whole chicken thighs
2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 small onion — thinly sliced [I used a red onion]
1 Pinch sugar
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1. Preheat the oven to 400°. In a food processor, pulse the bread until finely shredded. Add the garlic, [panko], rosemary and Parmesan, season with salt and pepper and pulse until combined. Add 2 tablespoons of the oil olive and pulse just until the crumbs are evenly moistened. Transfer to a small bowl.
2. In a medium, ovenproof skillet, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil until shimmering. Season the chicken thighs with salt and pepper and add them to the skillet, skin side down. Cook over moderately high heat until golden, about 6 minutes. Turn the chicken and spread the skin with the mustard. Carefully spoon the bread crumbs onto the chicken, patting them on with the back of the spoon. Transfer the skillet to the oven and roast the chicken for about 15 minutes, until the crumbs are golden and crisp and the chicken is cooked through.
3. Meanwhile, in a medium saucepan, melt the butter. Add the onion and sugar, season with salt and pepper and cook over moderate heat until softened, 6 to 7 minutes. Add the lemon juice and cook until the liquid has evaporated, 2 minutes longer. Spoon the onion mixture onto 2 plates, top with the chicken and serve. NOTES : This recipe makes a strong argument for using fresh bread crumbs. Unlike store-bought ones, which can be powdery, fresh bread crumbs get toasty and crispy in the oven, making them especially delicious as a coating for these mustard-smeared chicken thighs.
Per Serving: 425 Calories; 36g Fat (75.3% calories from fat); 20g Protein; 7g Carbohydrate; 1g Dietary Fiber; 98mg Cholesterol; 271mg Sodium. Exchanges: 0 Grain(Starch); 2 1/2 Lean Meat; 1/2 Vegetable; 0 Fruit; 5 1/2 Fat; 0 Other Carbohydrates.
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Remember a couple of weeks ago when I wrote up the Stacked Enchiladas? They had these crispy, crunchy onions as a garnish with drizzled Mexican crema? Well, the Stacked Enchiladas are long gone, but I’d put the remains of these onions in a little plastic baggie in the refrigerator. You know how sometimes you poke around in there and find all kinds of gems? Maybe moldy gems. Perhaps something unidentifiable? And then, perhaps some tasty gems when you’re trying to throw together something in a hurry, and it doesn’t LOOK like there’s anything in the darned thing? This was lunch yesterday - Dave and I shared this one sandwich. It was some wonderful Citterio rosemary ham from Trader Joe’s, a little smear of Best Foods mayo, some pale ale mustard, sliced vine-ripened tomatoes, a few thin slices of avocado, a good grinding of freshly ground black pepper, and then I topped it with the vinegary red onions and some feathery leaf lettuce. Lo and behold - a magnificent sandwich. It’s the crunch that is the lure for me. I’ll make these again just for other dishes. I used some of the onions in a tuna salad sandwich a week or so ago, which were also delicious, and still had some left. These aren’t nibbling onions - they’re far too sour, vinegar-y (just like they’re supposed to be) but laced on a sandwich they’re sensational. Here’s a repeat of just the onions:

Vinegary Red Onions

1 whole red onion, peeled, thinly sliced

3/4 cup rice wine vinegar

Place onions in a medium skillet. Add vinegar and bring to a boil over high heat, stirring occasionally, about 2-3 minutes. Remove from heat and let stand until cool, stirring often. Add salt to taste. Serve immediately, or cover and refrigerate up to 3 days. Serve with a slotted spoon. Note: obviously these keep far longer than 3 days. It’s been 2 weeks and counting.

Credit must go to my daughter, Sara, for this recipe. She read it in one of my issues of Gourmet Magazine, when we were trying to figure out what to make for dinner one evening. Our families were together, and she recalled reading this recipe. We tried it, and it’s been a fixture on my summertime menu ever since. It really could be made any time of year, but seems like it goes so well with grilled meats, even though it’s done completely in the oven.

Although the preparation is simple, you do have to be hanging around in the kitchen off and on for the better part of 2 hours. It’s amazing that onion halves in a 400° oven take nearly 2 hours to settle into soft silkiness, but they do. Don’t skimp on the olive oil as it definitely enhances the flavor, and don’t allow the pan to dry out because the wine and oil will definitely burn. Generally I add a bit more red wine and always have to add additional water towards the end of the baking time. If you don’t have fresh thyme, you may use dried. Be generous with the herbs.

Baked Onions with Thyme
Recipe By: Gourmet Magazine, January, 2001
Serving Size : 12
6 large red onions — about 3.5 pounds
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
10 sprigs fresh thyme
1 pinch sea salt
2/3 cup Chianti — or other dry red wine
1/4 cup water — and you may need more

1. Preheat oven to 400°. (Do not use convection for this.) Remove both ends from the onions. Discard outer layers from the onions and cut each onion in half, crosswise.
2. Spray a 9 x 13 pan with olive oil spray and place onion halves, trimmed ends down into the pan. Drizzle with a little olive oil. Pour the wine over the onions, moistening each onion top some with the wine. Remove the leaves from the fresh thyme and sprinkle all over the onions. Season with the sea salt to taste and fresh cracked pepper.
3. Bake, uncovered, in the middle of the oven, basting with pan juices twice during the baking, for 40 minutes. Add water to the pan and bake until the onions are browned and tender, about another 50 minutes, watching that the pan doesn’t dry out. Serve hot, or cool to room temperature to serve.

Per Serving: 101 Calories; 4g Fat (47.4% calories from fat); 1g Protein; 8g Carbohydrate; 2g Dietary Fiber; 0mg Cholesterol; 14mg Sodium. Exchanges: 0 Grain(Starch); 1 Vegetable; 1/2 Fat.
Serving Ideas : You may want to double the batch so you’ll have leftovers, as they are wonderful to throw into pasta, a salad, or just by themselves.

NOTES : If you use REALLY big onions, they will take longer to cook, but a small onion is too small. So medium-large is ideal. These onions are just mouth-watering, they’re so good. It’s a simple dish to make, and just requires you to be nearby. Be careful that the wine doesn’t boil away completely, as then they will burn. Add water periodically if it does evaporate, and reduce the oven temperature a little bit. If you want to reduce the cooking time, cut the onions into wedges instead of halves, and they’ll cook in about 90 minutes.

Printer friendly recipe.