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In the Sanctuary of Outcasts: A Memoir (P.S.) – by Neil White (on my Kindle) – a really, really interesting book. It’s a memoir about the year the author spent in prison in Louisiana. About his sanctimonious attitude when he arrived there (he was convicted of kiting checks trying to keep his publishing business afloat) and what he learns during his year. But as much as it’s about his life as a prisoner, it’s more about the other residents of the prison – the last remaining lepers (Hansen’s Disease) who are provided for in the facility. Neil White is quite a character and I wondered more than once if he was ever going to “get it,” that he was greedy and egotistical. The book wasn’t published for about 10 years after his release, so at least he didn’t profit immediately by telling tales. The epilogue was so sad – listing the deaths of many of the leprosy patients and some of the inmates he came to call friends. One person at amazon commented that it was not worth reading because the author profited from his incarceration, and that he didn’t appear to have redeemed himself. I disagree – I think he did. If he didn’t, then he knows how to spin a good yarn. I choose to believe he learned a whole lot about himself and where his life took a (wrong) left turn, and that he’s trying to atone for his failings by publishing the book. You decide.

Death Comes to Pemberley- by P.D. James (on my Kindle) – if I hadn’t read about this book in the Los Angeles Times a week or so ago I’d never have pursued this book. It’s nothing even close to her wealth of books of the mystery genre. But yes, it IS a mystery (not something I normally read) but it takes place about 5 years after Pride and Prejudice leaves off. That was the hook for me. An entertaining read and a way to keep in touch with all the lovable (and not-so) characters from Jane Austen’s classic. It’s not a page-turner in the true mystery-murder style, but it’s fun to read.

Bread Alone: A Novel – by Judith Ryan Hendricks – I picked up this book at a lending library I use now and then. I have to laugh, though – the collection of books (probably numbering about 350 or so) is divided by paperback and hardback. And then by color. COLOR? I find that so ludicrous. But anyway, the title caught my eye. It’s definitely a novel, about a youngish woman who’s been a baker and a chef, but who is suddenly single. It’s about her struggle to find herself, to find a new rhythm of life. In the telling of the journey some recipes are included (baked goods, including bread-bread), which are available on the author’s website.

The Pioneer Woman: Black Heels to Tractor Wheels–A Love Story – by Ree Drummond (The Pioneer Woman) – most everyone who reads blogs knows about Ree – the Pioneer Woman, from Pawhuska, Oklahoma. She’s always entertaining, whimsical and enjoyable to read. A couple of years ago she wrote a memoir of her romance with Ladd, her now husband. I can’t count how many times, as I was reading this, that I was LOLing (Laughing Out Loud). She is such a witty writer and knows how to tell a story. Even though I know she married Ladd and has since had 4 children, I was caught up in her story from the first page. I wrote it up in more detail on a blog post, if you’re interested in reading more. Yes, it’s a romance, but not in the least bit sappy. Or graphic. Very fun read.

Living in a Foreign Language: A Memoir of Food, Wine, and Love in Italy – (on my Kindle) Michael Tucker (from L.A. Law some years ago) and his wife, on a whim almost, buy a home in Umbria. An old, old, old house with two bedrooms, a kitchen, living room, I think, and a nice terrace (where a lot of living goes on in Italian homes and families). It’s the story of the purchase itself, the friends they meet, the neighbors, how Michael finds the best butcher(s), bakers and candlestick makers. It made me long for another trip to Italy, actually. They enlarge the home, although they’re not there for most of the construction. It’s a similar tale to Frances Mayes’ books and Peter Mayle’s books too, but it’s different. Tucker is a TV star; his wife’s a stage actress. They live on some higher plane than I do, for sure, with lots of friends with connections. But it’s a cute story and I enjoyed it clear to the end.

 Other books waiting on my Kindle include: Parrot & Olivier (Peter Carey); A Week in December (Sebastian Faulks); Cleopatra: A Life (Stacy Schiff); A Scattered Life (Karen McQuestion).

IN THE POWDER ROOM: Our guest half-bath has a little table with a pile of books that I change every now and then. They’re books that might pique someone’s interest even if for a very short read. The Greatest Stories Never Told; and Sara Midda’s South of France; and The Trouble with Poetry (Billy Collins).

Tasting Spoons

My blog's namesake - small engraved sterling silver tea spoons that I use to taste as I'm cooking.

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Posted in Essays, wine, on February 26th, 2010.

wine cellar

The above is our wine cellar. It’s about 10 x 8, I’d guess, with room for the small table you see, although we’ve yet to sit down there except to catalog some wine (the room is below ground) and sip something because it’s too gosh-darned cold. We have a special refrigeration unit that keeps the wine cellar at a consistent 58. There’s also a little low cubbyhole off to the left (out of view) that can hold about another 8 cases of boxed wine. The cellar itself (with more shelving over on the left side) holds about 900 bottles. You can see that it’s nearly full. Everything you see above is red wine. White is over on the left side, and it’s only about half full since we drink so little white wine.

I got an email from a blogging friend the other day. She almost never drinks wine and suggested I write up a blog post about what wines I use when I cook, and also what are my solutions (in cooking) when I don’t have wine on hand – what do I substitute? Well, with a fully-stocked wine cellar in our home, that’s not likely to EVER happen. But there are times when I don’t feel like opening a bottle of wine – or what’s open is the wrong type for what I need. Sometimes I just ask my DH Dave if he’ll fetch me a bottle of something – so just read on about what I do. It depends on the situation, what I’m cooking, how important it is, and the cost of the suggested wine type. So, forthwith I’ve written up some info about my wine likes and dislikes, and offer some options for cooking. This post has ended up being way too long, so am going to break it up into several shorter ones. So, Nance, this post is for you . . .

When Dave and I married, lo these many years ago, one of our connections was about wine. We enjoyed sharing a bottle most evenings. We talked about wine, we did wine tastings in our home, we sought out restaurants, wineries and events that showcased wines. And one of the reasons we bought this home was the wine cellar. Previously we had a free-standing refrigerated wine cabinet, but it would only hold about 90 bottles (certainly not enough if you ask Dave!). The cellar in this house was a rustic shell, but it was refrigerated and we did have it outfitted with wine shelving, and had a new refrigeration unit installed a few years ago.

It was back in 1979 that I first took a class about wine appreciation, with my friend Kathy. I was newly single at that time and wanted to learn more about wine in general. It was 2-3 months long offered at the University of California: Irvine, and each week we had lectures, then wine tastings. Where we learned about taste (it was several years later that I learned about the different taste receptors in our mouths and why certain areas recognize sweet, salty, bitter and acid). I learned how to sniff (did the wine smell like a flower patch, an herbaceous garden, a summer afternoon, or, horrors, a pig sty or a barnyard – and yes, there were wines that DID smell like a pig sty). We learned to aerate -  swirl – to examine color and clarity, and finally taste, swishing it around in the mouth to contact all those different mouth receptors.And to pay attention to the finish – the last flavor receptors you register as the wine slides down your throat. All important aspects of wine drinking. And I was an avid wine appreciator for a whole lot of years. I still enjoy it, but I just don’t seem to have the appetite for it that I used to, or as my DH does. He drinks wine every night, without fail. I have a glass or two a week, is all.

stephen rossPictured left, one of our favorite wines from a small winery (Stephen Ross) here in California, from the region called the Central Coast. Dave buys plenty of wine from this winery as well as others in the area. They grow stupendous pinot noir grapes on the Central Coast. We had this with dinner two nights ago – oh my goodness was it wonderful, a 2004 Aubaine Vineyards Pinot Noir.

What I don’t enjoy is wine with an edge, with tannins, astringency or any bitterness. Which puts me in a difficult classification of wine drinker (not a respected one if you were to ask some wine experts). Most people who drink wine love the tannins and treasure the acidity, and the roughness of some varietals, vintages, like Beaujolais Nouveau. Or young Chianti. On the other hand, I don’t drink much sweet wine either. I seem to prefer the more floral types that have a sweeter edge. They’re not sweet wines by any means, but when you stuff your nose down into the glass you can smell the sugar-sweetness of fruit. And when you sip it you get a hint of sugar on the sides of your mouth. Like ones that have a hint of blackberries, strawberries or cherries. Even raisins or peaches. More white wines have a fruit scent – like peaches or apricots. Red wines more often have floral notes or the scent of berries. I like Merlot. I like the lighter style Pinot Noir. With a big juicy steak I enjoy a Cabernet. Cab is a wine you want to drink with food, not sip on its own. It’s too heavy for that. Zinfandel is also a heavy wine – or at least some of them are. They’re too stringent for me. Pinot Noir, I think, can be a sipping wine, but heavier ones need food to go with them. So you see, there’s no straight answer.

My husband drinks more (red) Zinfandel than anything else, but he will drink almost any wine except for sweeter types.  When I open a bottle of wine that’s meant just for me, I may have one glass and that’s it. And I’ve never had more than two glasses anytime. But nowadays one glass is enough and I don’t want any more, even the next day. We have the small pump that removes air from the bottle and it will keep for a few days, but generally Dave will drink up whatever I haven’t, so I shouldn’t worry about it. So, first we’re going to talk about red wine. In coming days I’ll talk about other wines too. So stay tuned.

RED WINE:

COOKING: Red wines offer a stronger body and depth than white wines, so keep that in mind when you cook.You wouldn’t want to use red wine in a delicate sauce for mild fish. It would overpower the fish. I don’t use the cheapest of wines for cooking, but I also don’t use very expensive wines, either. Nor would I ever use Two Buck Chuck in anything. If it’s not something I’d drink, then it doesn’t deserve to be in my food. But if I need red wine I generally will open an inexpensive (let’s say $8-10) bottle like Blackstone Merlot. We almost always have that in the cellar (because I like it and Dave doesn’t). It works. Merlot is a mellow wine – with no strong flavors one way or the other. If the dish I’m making can handle some sweetness, I might even use Sweet Vermouth – a red version of the more well-known white Vermouth. But I rarely use the sweet stuff – it’s too sweet usually. But it will keep on the shelf for months without deterioration. So I keep it around. Cabernet doesn’t normally get used in cooking around my house, but I will use an inexpensive bottle of Pinot Noir. I have one recipe on my blog that calls for an entire bottle of Zinfandel. If you’re interested, it’s called Zinfandel Sausage Sauce for Pasta. It’s a sensational recipe, and the wine is boiled down, reduced, yet the intense wine flavor is still there. It’s just a different type of red Bolognese sauce (spaghetti sauce), but made with the wine. It definitely has a winey flavor.

SUBSTITUTIONS: Actually I only have a few suggestions to substitute for red wine. Grape juice is far too sweet – it’s sweetened before it’s bottled. Way too much sugar for cooking. Some online recommendations suggest using grape juice with vinegar or lemon juice added. Well, maybe that would work. I haven’t tried it, so can’t make a recommendation here. There are some non-alcoholic wines out there (Ariel, I believe is one) but I’ve never used it. Apple juice could be substituted for wine, but I’d mix it half juice and half water, maybe adding a bit of lemon juice to tone it down. Chicken broth (or beef, vegetable) would also work, but add a little lemon juice (about a tsp.) to that as well. If the dish you’re making is a braised type, or soup, tomato juice would also work too. I read online that someone uses baby-food cherry juice (I would suppose it’s not sweetened). Another option is pomegranate juice – just try to choose one that’s less sweet (check the nutrition label for sugar). If the recipe you’re using is recommending the wine/juice be reduced by half (or whatever amount), remember that whatever sugar is in juice will be more concentrated – so it will be sweeter than the original. Same goes for salt (for instance if you used V-8 juice – I wouldn’t – but let’s suppose you did – it contains a huge amount of sodium – so if you reduced that liquid, it would be inordinately salty and likely inedible (advice: use low-sodium V-8). Whatever you do, though, make sure you substitute the same amount of juice/water/broth as wine measurement.

There are resources abounding around the internet on this subject:

Gourmet Sleuth

About.com: Home Cooking – this site has an amazing list of substitutions for oodles of alcoholic beverages, including liqueurs.

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